As a makeup artist, colour theory has become so engrained into my makeup arsenal, it is as important as my makeup kit and brushes. Understanding the basics can take you from a good makeup artist to a great makeup artist...
Colour theory is a science used in the creative fields to capture the attention of anyone viewing a piece of work. Think about some of the most famous brand logos – they have all used colour theory to best select a combination of colours that will draw your eye. It is the same with makeup design; the colours you choose will determine whether a makeup look is pleasing to the eye or not, or whether the shades you have worked with complement the face you’re working on.
From my own experience, understanding colour theory has allowed me to condense my kit and work with a smaller shade range because I can mix exactly the shades I need. With bodypaint, for example, having the three primary shades (red, blue, yellow) and black and white means I can create any colour imaginable. I want a coral? No problem – I mix my pink and yellow with a little white. If I want a deep burgundy, I will mix my red and blue with a touch or orange and a smidge of black, and there you have it.
Complementary colour
These are colours that are opposite on the colour wheel. Placed next to each other, they enhance each other and make one another stand out. Mixing together any combination of complementary colours neutralises the other. So, when trying to camouflage something as an MUA, knowing your complementary combinations is vital. Are you trying to cover a dark purple bruise, for example? Add a little ochre or yellow on top of the bruise first to neutralise the purple, and it will make concealing a lot easier.
Triadic
This is a combination of three colours that are evenly spaced around the colour wheel. Take red, blue and yellow – these are evenly spaced and create a triadic colour combination. When you see a triadic colour combo, the colours work harmoniously and are attractive to the eye. For example, Lidl’s logo.
Analogous
This is a series of colours on the wheel that are next to each other. For example, red, red-violet and violet. Creating a whole makeup using an analogous colour combo is super easy and it works every time.
Monochromatic
Now, take one shade and add either black (a shade), grey (a tone) or white (a tint). You will have a monochromatic colour combo. For instance, red, pink and maroon. They are all using one colour as the base, but there are various tints, tones and shades within that combo.
Understanding colour theory adds an element of expertise to your makeup, and talking to a client and giving reasons for your colour choices asserts a creative authority and will help you create striking, smart and memorable makeup.
Carly Utting is a senior artist at makeup brand Mac. She studied Media Makeup before joining Mac in 2005, where she also works with Mac’s Artist Community to nurture the careers of fledgling and established makeup artists.