With new regulations set to cap topical retinol products for the face at 0.3% and body at 0.5% amidst concerns of overconsumption, retinaldehyde (retinal) is being hailed as the next wrinkle-reducing, resurfacing powerhouse set to the world of skincare by storm.
We asked the experts about the differences between the two vitamin A derivatives and how they benefit the skin.
What are the differences between retinol and retinal?
Retinol and retinal are both forms of gold standard anti-ageing ingredient, vitamin A (also referred to as "retinoids").
Vitamin A works by speeding up skin cell regeneration to reveal the newer, brighter and fresher skin cells underneath. In doing so, it helps to combat common ageing concerns such as fine lines and wrinkles, dark spots, dullness and uneven texture.
“The main difference is that retinal delivers results faster than classic forms of retinol because it is one step closer to retinoic acid than retinol in the vitamin A pathway,” says Daniel Isaacs, chief product officer and co-founder of skincare brand Medik8.
“As it is one step closer to retinoic acid in the metabolic pathway, retinal works more directly and efficiently compared to retinol, potentially providing quicker and more pronounced results in terms of skin benefits like reducing wrinkles, improving texture, and treating acne”” says Cigdem Kemal Yilmaz, chemical engineer and founder of Skin Masterclass.
“Also retinal is more chemically stable than retinol. Retinol is prone to degradation when exposed to light and air, which can reduce its effectiveness. Retinal's improved stability helps maintain its potency and efficacy over time, making it a more reliable ingredient in skincare formulations.”
How are the mechanisms of action different?
There are key molecular differences between retinol and retinal that make them behave differently when they interact with the skin.
“When applied to the skin, vitamin A travels through several conversion stages known as the ‘vitamin A pathway’. Retinol first converts to retinal, and then to retinoic acid (the most active form of vitamin A),” says Isaacs.
“Retinal is only one conversion step away from retinoic acid on the vitamin A pathway, and therefore works faster than retinol to combat visible signs of ageing. Unlike retinol, retinal also possesses antibacterial properties which help to tackle blemish-causing bacteria on top of delivering its many age-defying benefits.”
What are the skincare benefits of retinal?
“Retinaldehyde (aka retinal) rapidly resurfaces the skin while helping rebuild collagen and speeds up cellular turnover,” says Isaacs. “It has effects similar to prescription-strength retinoic acid. Unlike the other forms of vitamin A, retinaldehyde also boasts direct antibacterial action, making it the ideal anti-ageing ingredient for blemish-prone skin.”
“Retinal is used in skin lightening and depigmenting products and can also help repair photoageing damage caused by UV exposure,” adds Yilmaz.
Does retinal have any side effects like retinol?
Retinoids can generally cause side effects like redness, peeling and dryness, especially during the initial stages of use.
“Retinal has been found to be better tolerated by the skin, resulting in fewer and less severe side effects while still providing significant benefits,” says Yilmaz.
This is because the metabolism of retinaldehyde to retinoic acid occurs only by keratinocytes at a pertinent stage of differentiation, leading to a more controlled delivery of retinoic acid and weaker retinoid associated adverse effects as compared to tretinoin and other synthetic retinoids.
What ingredients can retinal be combined with?
“Retinal pairs well with ingredients like panthenol, glycerin, hyaluronic acid, niacinamide, bakuchiol and sodium ascorbyl phosphate,” says Yilmaz. “Layer retinal with skin soothing, anti-inflammatory, moisturising and hydrating ingredients to avoid any possible irritation when using retinal.”
“While layering, consultants should be cautious of layering with AHAs (concentrations above 6%), other retinoids and L-ascorbic acid because they may not be tolerated well on the client’s skin. An adaptation period should be recommended for clients on retinol such as: twice a week for two weeks, every other day for the following two weeks. If the skin can tolerate the ingredient, it can be increased to daily use but if there is any sensitivity, reduce the frequency.”