Skin mapping: the key to clear skin?
While it's certainly not a new practice, skin mapping can often be overlooked during client consultations, when it could be the key to helping your clients achieve their clear skin goals.
What is skin mapping?
First used in ancient Chinese medicine, skin mapping, or skin reading, sees blemishes and breakouts as an indicator of underlying issues within the body.
“Skin mapping is a supportive tool used to analyse skin and identify imbalances and stressed areas in the corresponding internal organs or body systems,” shares Dermalogica education manager Lesley Corridan.
“It was discovered as a part of traditional Chinese medicine, which views the body as an interconnected system.”
“As the skin is the biggest organ, it is believed if there is some unbalance in the body it will manifest in the skin as different problems and one of them is acne,” adds Milena Naydenov, lead aesthetician at 111 Harley St.
“The acne face map is divided in different areas, and each will signal an underlying issue that can be caused by intrinsic and extrinsic factors.”
Why you should use skin mapping in your treatments
Using mapping as part of your consultation is an easy add-on that can help both you and your clients to understand why they may be experiencing issues with their skin.
“Skin mapping offers an alternative and complementary approach to skin analysis and consultation, providing a well-rounded perspective on the client's overall health and wellbeing,” says Corridan.
“This allows the therapist to offer a more personalised treatment plan that addresses the underlying health issues contributing to the skin concerns.”
Andrea O’Donnell, national education manager for Dibi Milano, also uses it as a way to track skin behaviour, and help prevent further issues, as she explains, “Skin mapping can be a valuable tool to improving skin health by identifying potential problems early and providing customised treatments and products for maintaining healthy skin.
“Skin mapping can provide a baseline for monitoring changes in the skin over time by tracking any changes in the skin health, making it possible to detect potential problems early and prevent further damage.”
These detections are often more indicative of internal health problems as opposed to other causes of acne, allowing you to recommend lifestyle adjustments for long term results as well as products.
“This may include recommending dietary changes, such as reducing sugar or increasing hydration, or suggesting lifestyle modifications, such as reducing stress or getting more sleep,” explains Corridan, who also notes the importance of communicating the indications in the right way.
“Rather than making direct organ references, make lifestyle references,” she suggests.
“The communication to clients is not about the health of that organ, but rather centred around how lifestyle choices affect their skin. Advice and education should be easily actioned by the client, which will support their skincare results. “
The skin mapping zones
Whilst skin mapping isn’t an exact science, with each therapist having their own methods and every client being different, there is a rough ‘guide’ as to the issues indications could be pointing to.
Forehead: linked to digestion
“The upper forehead is linked to the bladder and the lower forehead links to the intestines, sides of the forehead the spleen, with the temples relating to the adrenals,” explains Corridan.
She adds that issues relating to water intake, poor digestion, or adrenal stress could be indicated by: “Congestion under the skin's surface or along the hairline and eyebrows, breakouts, dehydration and horizontal lines. Sometimes we can see dryness, red or itchy skin at the top of the forehead.”
Eyes: linked with the kidneys
“The eyes are associated with the kidneys and urinary system. Dark circles and puffiness can be a sign of dehydration, poor lymphatic drainage or kidney problems,” explains O’Donnell.
“Small white crystalline nodules under the eyes relate to high levels of uric acid in the blood, as the kidneys are unable to eliminate this efficiently from the body via urine when levels are too high,” adds Corridan.
“This is also the cause of gout in the feet. Visible signs of this crystallised form of uric acid can also be seen under the skin and around fingers and toes. “
Nose and between the eyes: linked with the pancreas, heart and liver
The centre of the face can indicate a lot of areas of concern, with the pancreas often linked with the bridge of the nose, the heart linked with the tip and the space between the eyes reflective of the liver.
“The area between the eyes is commonly known as the ‘wine and dine’ area, potential dairy intolerance,” shares Corridan.
O’Donnell adds, “Redness, swelling or papules on the nose can be a sign of high blood pressure or poor blood circulation.”
Cheeks: linked with lungs, lower cheeks, gums and teeth
Sensitisation, hot spots, breakouts, milia, hyperpigmentation, vertical lines, rashes, and dryness on the cheeks could indication issues with the respiratory system, such as allergies or sinus problems.
Breakouts on the lower cheek area could indicate issues related to gum and oral health.
“Persistent breakouts in the region of where the teeth are along the jaw bones (lower cheek area) relate to dental problems,” explains Corridan.
“If you cannot fix breakouts with your skincare treatments and products, then recommend getting teeth and gums checked."
Chin and mouth: linked to reproduction, stomach and colon
Surface congestion, breakouts, pigmentation or increased hair growth on the top lip could all be linked to issues with your client’s reproductive system, especially around the chin, as O’Donnell explains: “Breakouts on the chin can indicate hormonal imbalances or menstrual issues.”
If your client is experiences breakouts on or immediately surrounding the lips, this could be linked to issues with the stomach or colon.
Neck and lower jaw: linked to the adrenal glands
Breakouts, hyperpigmentation, sensitisation and premature signs of ageing on the neck and lower jaw links to the adrenal glands, also known as suprarenal glands, which are attached to the kidneys.
Recognising when a spot is more than a spot
It can be hard to know whether a breakout is simply a breakout, or cause for concern.
“Generally, the more persistent the concern the more likely it is linked to an underlying concern,” advises Corridan.
“If skin is less responsive to skincare and treatment and eliminating all the traditional reasons for the breakout then it may be a sign that an adjustment to lifestyle or wellbeing might be required. “
Naydenov agrees, adding that, “Regular acne is usually in areas of the face where more oil glands are present, and it will improve with regular acne treatment or medication.
“If acne is persistent, it could be something internal or hormonal, so a visit to a skin specialist or dermatologist is highly recommended”
Do you offer skin mapping as part of your treatments? Let us know in the comments...
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