In the Know: Skin Evolution

What kind of cleansing and toning routine should I recommend for clients with sensitive, normal, and combination/oily skin respectively?

“Whatever their skin type, it’s important to recommend that clients follow a good skincare regime. Even if you have them every six-to-eight weeks, facials will not resolve skin care concerns if a good homecare regime isn’t being followed.

Visiting a spa or salon regularly provides a skin boost, but it also ensures clients receive up-to-date advice from a professional. This is important as skin changes all the time. Routines therefore need re-assessing, ideally every 12 weeks.

To assist clients in adopting a good homecare regime, provide samples of products used in the treatments they have. Also, recommend they build a skin routine over time.

It’s far better to have three good products that you use daily, than 10 items from various brands, which clients forget how and when to use.

Sensitive skin
The important thing to remember with sensitive skin is to treat it with care. Always test products for any reaction before use and recommend your client avoid products with parabens and chemical ingredients, as these tend to aggravate sensitive skin. Clients should cleanse and tone morning and night and use a serum under a day cream and a night cream, to help reduce sensitivity and calm the skin.

Advice them to exfoliate once a week, ideally using a very gentle enzymatic exfoliator, as these are good at tackling redness and sensitivity. You should never over-exfoliate and products with ingredients that can scratch the skin, such as groundnut kernels, should be avoided. Clients should always use sun protection.

Normal to dry skin
For normal to dry skin, it’s important to use products that moisturise and nourish the skin. Just as with sensitive skin, clients should cleanse and tone morning and night, and also use a serum and eye cream, as well as a day and night cream at the appropriate time.

Clients with normal to dry skin should exfoliate once to twice a week, using either an enzymatic or mechanical exfoliator, to remove dry, dead skin cells and keep the skin fresh, clear and ready to absorb the ingredients from their other products. Use a mask once or twice a week to nourish the skin and boost hydration levels.

Oily and combination Skin
Oily and combination skins should not be treated with anything too harsh, as this strips the skin of its protective barrier, which leads to an overproduction of sebum and oil – and a viscous circle commences. Recommend the client to opt for products from professional ranges or natural brands, as these will remove oil from the skin without being harsh.

Customers with oily or combination skin should cleanse and tone morning and night using a facial wash, applying a light moisturiser in the day that will prevent an oily and shiny look and keep the skin matt in appearance. Exfoliate once a week, using a mechanical exfoliator, to help keep skin clear and prevent dead skin cells blocking pores and leading to black heads and pimples.”

Karen Wadman is national training manager for Skin Evolution, the UK distributor of skincare brands Kleraderm and Docteur Renaud. Karen is a trained therapist with extensive experience and is the owner of the Taylor Made Treatments beauty salon in Buckinghamshire, which opened 10 years ago.