What is corneotherapy and how does it protect the skin’s barrier?

Corneotherapy is a philosophy to proactively care for the skin. In essence, it looks to preserve the integrity of the skin barrier and stratum corneum as a priority.

It was first coined by Dr Albert Kligman, a dermatologist and co-founder of Retin-A, back in the 1960s and has been picking up pace with those who have a keen interest in a progressive – not aggressive – approach to skin.

What is the skin barrier and how does it work?

The skin barrier is a natural shield; it’s an eco-system that, when functioning effectively, is impermeable, preventing the penetration of micro-organisms and transepidermal water loss. If we visualise it like a brick wall, the bricks are our cells – known as corneocytes – and the mortar is our lipid matrix, which is made up of ceramides, fatty acids, and cholesterols.

If the wall isn’t maintained then the mortar will begin to crumble and, inevitably, it will weaken. 

The skin barrier, therefore, needs to be intact for the epidermis to be healthy and this is achieved when there is an equilibrium of lipids and water. However, the barrier doesn’t work in isolation, it works synergistically with the skin’s microbiome and acid mantle. It’s these elements that together optimise barrier strength and integrity.

What causes damage to the skin barrier?

If the barrier becomes “broken” then this harmony is impacted, and the health of the skin starts to deteriorate. It may become sensitised, inflamed, dehydrated, and prone to infection, and skin disorders may manifest. So, it is imperative to not just treat the symptoms but to consider and address the underlying causes too.

Our barrier will naturally weaken with intrinsic ageing, but other factors can exacerbate its demise, including environmental factors such as UV and pollution, and internal factors like stress, poor diet, and medication. Sadly, however, all too often it’s caused by ill-advised topical skincare products that contain detergents and perfumes.

These can negatively impact the naturally acidic pH levels of the acid mantle and create a hostile environment that prevents the skin’s flora from flourishing.

In addition, the misinformation around removing “dead” skin cells from the stratum corneum has led to the spurious rationale that skin needs to be constantly exfoliated – upsetting its natural desquamation process. In fact, corneocytes still play an important part in communicating with the immune system, so prematurely and aggressively removing them – either chemically or mechanically – can impair the skin further.

How does corneotherapy protect the skin barrier?

True corneotherapy goes beyond theory and avoids the use of ingredients such as petrochemicals, preservatives, fragrances, emulsifiers, and silicones, which will negatively impact the skin. Instead, ingredients that are compatible with the skin’s own biochemistry are embraced as well as those that mimic the skin’s function.

So, if we want to achieve sustainable results for our customers, we should be considering their skin barrier and stratum corneum as part of any strategy. If skin health isn’t optimised, then this should be the priority ahead of any corrective intervention. Compromising an already compromised skin is not a common-sense approach and may create more problems than it solves.

Maria Rylott-Byrd is a corneotherapist and owner of Maria Rylott-Byrd Skin Health & Transformation in Northamptonshire.