Discover expert tips from makeup artist Anushka Patel on shade matching, coverage choices, and undertone selection for flawless results.
"How do I find my foundation shade?" is something many makeup artists will have heard from their clients.
With an array of shades and textures now available, it can often be overwhelming.
My approach is always to put the client's preference first – everyone has an idea of how they would like their makeup to look.
Therefore, I like to work with my clients to choose a shade for them.
Consultation
Asking as many questions as possible to begin with will really help to direct you when beginning the shade matching process.
Questions can include:
- How would you describe your skin?
- What kind of coverage and finish would you like your foundation to have?
- Do you want a foundation that is your natural skin tone, or do you prefer something slightly lighter or warmer?
Most brands now segment their range of shades very well, for example at Et Al we have nearly 100 shades across three different foundations, and we segment the shades by light, medium, tan and deep, and each shade reference will have a letter to describe the undertone.
This makes it easier to navigate and shortlist a handful shades to begin with.
Step-by-step
Step 1: Identify what category your client falls into (for example, light, medium, tan or deep).
Step 2: Choose three shades and swatch them using a fluffy brush so that you avoid too dense an application, going then from the middle of the cheek down to the jawline. This will help you to see if the shade is contrasting the neck.
Step 3: Lightly blend the swatches out to get an accurate picture of how the product will diffuse into the skin; judging this based on a swatch won’t give you the accuracy you need, so this is an important step.
Step 4: Show your client and give them the opportunity to choose the shade they feel meets their needs.
Step 5: Everyone’s face can host a number of different tones, so it’s important to try the chosen shade all over the face to ensure that it blends seamlessly and provides the coverage and finish your client has said they’re looking for.
Concealer and colour correction
Once you have tried the foundation all over the face, you can add concealer to bring back some dimension.
When concealing, I opt for something with a yellow tone to counteract redness, something with a peach tone to counteract blue or green, and orange to counteract dark or dull areas.
You can also choose to conceal first if you are colour correcting, but I find that by concealing after foundation you will naturally use less product because your foundation will have done a good job already.
Finally, finish with a wash of colour on the cheeks. I tend to go for a matte blusher if my client’s skin is quite textured, as anything with a sheen will accentuate texture on the skin.
If my client struggles with redness, I opt for something with a peach, nude or bronze tone so that if any redness does come through, we’re not adding to it.
Anushka Patel is a makeup artist with over 15 years’ experience in the industry, having trained at the Academy of Freelance Makeup. Patel is currently the head of makeup brand Et Al, distributed by IIAA.
