Independent UK salon nkd has edged closer to a victory as cosmetics giant L’Oréal scales back its trademark challenge.
Just ahead of the hearing, on November 5, L’Oréal reduced the scope of its objections to NKD owner Rebecca Dowdeswell's trademark application for the brand name, which is written in a stylised way as nkd ( ).
The dispute began in September 2022, when Dowdeswell applied to renew her nkd trademark after the original registration, granted in 2009, had lapsed. Dowdeswell has said the renewal was missed due to the Covid-19 pandemic.
L’Oréal opposed the application, citing potential confusion with its Urban Decay Naked range. The objection initially covered a wide range of beauty services and products, prompting a legal challenge that has been progressing through the UK Intellectual Property Office (IPO).
Dowdeswell, who runs nkd salon in Leicester, said the dispute had placed significant financial and operational pressure on her business.
She spent more than £30,000 in direct legal fees, meaning she had to take the difficult decision to close her original and flagship Nottingham waxing and beauty salon.
In the latest development, L’Oréal has narrowed the scope of its objection, allowing Dowdeswell to continue using the nkd name for a number of services and products at her remaining salon in Leicester. While the IPO proceedings are ongoing, this adjustment represents a meaningful step toward securing her brand.
Dowdeswell told Professional Beauty, "I’m relieved the hearing is over and I look forward to the UKIPO’s decision in the first quarter of next year. This is an important story for all beauty business owners to be aware of as it could happen to anyone.
She added, "I’d been trading for 13 years as nkd ( ) and had held the relevant trade marks for 10 years when L’Oreal first logged its objections and said I had to change the name of my business back in 2022.
"At that point, I faced an impossible situation which was either to spend vast amounts of money on rebranding both of my salons, all of my physical and online/digital assets and my waxing and hair removal aftercare product line, or spend vast amounts of money trying to defend myself.
"I always knew I had done nothing wrong and so I chose the second option and to stand up for what was right. That decision cost me more than I could ever have imagined."