From her radiant red carpet appearances to her effortlessly bronzed concert looks, Sabrina Carpenter’s glow is the envy of many.
But achieving that flawless tan isn’t just down to luck – it’s the work of Sam Milne, an expert tanning artist based in Scotland and owner of Brown Sugar by Sam Milne.
Here, Milne shares her top professional tips for achieving a natural, even and long-lasting tan, whether you’re a spray tan artist or looking to maintain the results of your professional tan at home.
The secret to a natural-looking tan: colour theory
Achieving a flawless tan starts with understanding colour theory. “Colour theory in spray tanning is necessary for achieving natural and flawless results on different skin tones,” says Milne.
“It helps us as artists select the right base to neutralise undertones and avoid unwanted hues like orange or ashy tones.”
The main skin undertones are:
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Warm (golden, peachy or yellow): These undertones can oversaturate with the wrong tan. Olive or violet-based solutions help balance them.
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Cool (pink, red or blue): These can turn ashy, so brown or warm-based tans add warmth without looking unnatural.
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Neutral (a mix of warm and cool): Most tan bases work well on these undertones.
Choosing the right base ensures the tan enhances the skin rather than clashing with it, preventing overdevelopment and uneven fading.
Colour theory also applies to makeup – read our colour theory guide for makeup artists here.
Finding the perfect tanning shade for every client
A professional approach to tanning starts with identifying a client’s undertone. “The easiest way I figure out a client’s undertone is by looking at their skin in good lighting,” explains Milne.
“Check the veins on their wrist – if they look green, they’re warm-toned; if they’re blue or purple, they’re cool-toned; and if it’s a mix, they’re neutral.”
Different base colours in tanning solutions help create the most flattering result:
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Olive-based tans: Best for neutralising warm or yellow undertones to avoid an orange look.
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Violet-based tans: Counteract cool tones to prevent an ashy finish.
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Brown-based tans: Ideal for neutral undertones, adding warmth without looking overdone.
One of the biggest mistakes people make is opting for the darkest shade possible without considering their undertone.
“So many people ask to be the darkest shade expecting a deep tan, but sometimes it’s just not achievable,” says Milne. “Always choose what would suit your client naturally.”
Customising tans for different skin types
Not all skin reacts to tanning solutions in the same way, which is why customisation is key.
“For very fair or deep skin tones, a lot of it is down to timing,” says Milne. “Leaving the solution on for less time can create a softer glow rather than using a light solution for eight hours.”
When working with mature skin or clients with pigmentation, adjustments are necessary. “Not adjusting your technique can cause problems like white lines in knees or elbows,” she warns. “Always adjust your client’s position to allow even distribution of the tan.”
For dry or mature skin, hydration is crucial. “I always use a hydration spray before applying tan to help the skin absorb the solution more evenly.”
For clients with pigmentation, Milne recommends a clear solution without heavy bronzers, applying a light second coat on affected areas to even out the skin tone.
For those with redness or skin conditions like eczema or psoriasis, a nourishing moisturiser can act as a barrier, preventing the tan from over-absorbing in sensitive areas.
Troubleshooting and aftercare for a long-lasting tan
One of the most common colour-matching mistakes is using the wrong base for the wrong skin tone. “It’s not a one-size-fits-all approach,” says Milne. “If you’re unsure, always start lighter and get feedback and photos from your client.”
When it comes to maintaining a tan, good aftercare is just as important as the application itself. “A good tan is down to good prep and aftercare,” she advises.
To maintain the most natural tone, Milne recommends:
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Staying hydrated.
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Avoiding harsh soaps and body products containing mineral oils.
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Moisturising daily with a fast-absorbing lotion rather than heavy creams.
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Drinking plenty of water to keep skin looking fresh and prolonging the tan’s lifespan.
The golden rule of tanning
“The best tans are the ones people don’t notice,” says Milne. By understanding colour theory, choosing the right base, customising the tan to each individual, and following proper aftercare, beauty professionals can help clients achieve a flawless, sun-kissed glow – just like Sabrina Carpenter herself.
