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While tanning might sound like a no-go for those with eczema and psoriasis, it just requires a little more thought and preparation. From preparation, product selection and aftercare, here’s what you need to consider to provide your clients with the best tan possible…
Consultation process for clients with eczema or psoriasis
Eczema causes patches of skin become inflamed, itchy, red, cracked and rough, and blisters may sometimes occur. Meanwhile psoriasis also causes flaky patches of skin, which form scales.
As with any beauty service, what comes before the treatment is as important to its success as the service itself – and for clients with eczema and psoriasis, this is especially true.
Abbie McCann, tanning expert and Crazy Angel educator, believes that preparation is key. She says, "As a tanning therapist it’s your job to make the client feel comfortable. I have come to realise over the years that you have to take a different approach with all clients that suffer with eczema, because every client is different with this skin condition.
"Firstly, make sure you ask the client if they have any skin conditions you should be aware of at the time of the booking. Secondly, a consultation is so important in these cases because it allows you to assess the client's skin and make the best decision for them and the desired results."
Crazy Angel recommends that clients suffering from skin conditions should consult a medical professional before tanning.
“If you feel the client's skin is in a place where you can go ahead with the tanning treatment, during the consultation, take a look at their skin and advise them to trust you as a therapist to give them the percentage of tan that would be best for them and their skin, and which won't emphasise their condition.
"I would also always offer my client a gradual build-up of spray tanning sessions to see how their skin reacts; for example, starting with the lightest solution and building up.”
Tanning preparation for clients with eczema or psoriasis
In terms of skin prep, a deep physical exfoliation is not advisable. However, celebrity tanner James Harknett, who has worked with a variety of tanning brands including Fake Bake, advises that clients not experiencing a flare up can “exfoliate with a gentle product and concentrate on built-up, coarser skin, then they need to keep the skin heavily hydrated up until the day of tan application.”
McCann adds, “I always recommend that the client exfoliates and moisturises their full body 48 and 24 hours prior to their appointment, using a prescribed moisturiser if necessary.”
Immediately before carrying out a tanning treatment, many experts recommend applying a barrier cream to drier areas to prevent them from absorbing too much product.
McCann advises choosing a barrier cream that includes ingredients such as shea butter, which helps to nourish and has anti-inflammatory properties that soothe irritated skin, and aloe vera, which also has a soothing and cooling effect on the skin.
This is usually in areas such as the hands, knees and elbows, although eczema and psoriasis can affect other areas of the body.
Shoned Owen, tanning expert and founder of vegan sunless tan company Tanya Whitebits, comments, “Whatever the product, I would recommend performing a 24-hour patch test to check skin suitability and sensitivity before tanning. If irritation occurs, don’t use it.”
Tips for tanning clients with eczema or psoriasis
Owen says, “When applying the tanning product, it is best to avoid direct application to eczema-affected areas. When unaffected areas have been tanned, use a blender brush or the back of a velvet tanning mitt to glaze over the problem area.
“This will help blend in the tan and prevent dry areas from absorbing too much product, which can produce darker patches.”
Gemma Smalley, Sienna X Midlands region trainer, adds, “An extra tip is to use a good quality tanning mitt to gently pat and buff a hydrating tanning mousse into the skin, instead of a spray tan.”
Harknett advises, "Ensure that you use a tanning solution that’s not too high in DHA so that it’s not too dehydrating."
When should professionals say no to tanning clients with eczema or psoriasis?
Symptoms can come and go in cycles, and an increased presence of symptoms is known as a flare up. Signs of a flare up can include extremely sensitive or painful-feeling skin and increased itchiness, which can lead to open wounds if the skin is scratched too much.
If clients are experiencing a flare up of a skin condition or have open wounds, it’s important not to carry out a tanning treatment – this is because tanning products can aggravate and dry skin cells even further when reacting to create the tan.
Having to turn a client away from a treatment can be difficult, but there are ways to manage the situation.
McCann says, “Refusing a client can be hard but it always depends on the situation. I pride myself in making all clients feel comfortable from the minute we first speak to the minute they leave the salon – this is key.
“I ensure we are in a safe and comfortable setting before explaining why I do not recommend their requested treatment. However, I always suggest safe alternatives, for example, a lash and brow tint.”
Meanwhile, Owen explains, "Once the skin has healed, usually around a fortnight after a flare-up, clients can safely tan if they follow the correct advice.”
How to choose the right tanning products for eczema
When it comes to selecting the best tanning products for a client with eczema, Owen says, “I would recommend looking at the ingredients list in the tanning product in case there is anything that could cause sensitivity.”
Some clients might be aware of personal triggers, so this is something to address in the consultation.
“For clients with eczema, a gentler formula with natural ingredients is best,” she adds.
Smalley advises using "a good-quality tan that contains lots of nourishing, moisturising ingredients".
How to choose the right tanning products for clients with psoriasis
Harknett advises, "Dihydroxyacetone (DHA) is the active ingredient within self-tanners and spray tan solutions, and this is the ingredient that reacts with the proteins on the surface of the skin to cause the browning effect.
"The only ingredient to avoid when tanning clients with psoriasis is alcohol, which is normally found in canned tanning products. This should only be avoided because it contributes to a drying effect on the skin, which can aggravate psoriasis.
"If clients are prone to psoriasis, then they should avoid tanning during a flare up because the product can aggravate and dry the skin cells when reacting to create the tan."
Post-tan aftercare for eczema or psoriasis
The process itself is the same as it is for all clients, says Harknett. "They should rinse in a warm shower and pat gently with a soft towel. Clients should moisturise generously with products that aren’t too rich or buttery.”
He also notes that "working in a medicated talc around the chest and creases with a soft make-up brush will help keep the tan intact and prevent it from flaking off prematurely."
When treating clients with skin conditions, it can help to go the extra mile with aftercare.
McCann explains, “After tanning sessions, I check in with clients to ensure they are happy with their results and to ask for any feedback – this shows my commitment to providing a safe and inclusive service.”
Smalley adds, “You could even give them a sample of cream to take away with them.”
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