How to do acrylic 3D nail art

Q: I want to create acrylic 3D flower nail art. Where do I start?

Doing 3D acrylic nail art requires a lot of practice and patience, especially when you’re trying to create something intricate like flowers. The most important aspect of application is getting the bead consistency right.

Before you start to mould your design, your bead should go matte. Only once this has happened can you start to create your flower. Then, using the tip of your brush but keeping it to the inside of your bead, gently pat the product down to create your petal shape.

For roses, I like to create a croissant shape before pressing the product down because this gives a good base. Repeat this process each time until you get to the middle of the flower, making sure to overlap each petal as you go along. Remember, flowers aren’t symmetrical so they don’t have to be perfect.

When creating a two-toned petal, use the lighter colour first and then add a small amount of a darker tone to create a nice blend. Your lighter colour should be kept to the outside of the bead when sculpting as this will make your flower look more realistic.

The tools you use are also important. Invest in a brush with a sharp point, such as a #4 or #6, as it will make it easier for you to create intricate art. I like NSI’s secrets 3D Brush because it’s long, giving me plenty of control over my product.

My best advice is to stay out of your comfort zone and keep pushing yourself – once you perfect the basics of a design, keep tweaking it and the results will be so rewarding.

Bethany Denby is owner of Bethany Anne Nails in Leeds and was a finalist in the Professional Beauty Awards Nail Professional of the Year 2018 category.

Image: ©Bethany Denby

Watch our PBTV video on the common acrylic nail troubles that trip techs up.

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