Brow lamination is a semi-permanent treatment that creates natural-looking, brushed up brows – but how does it work, and who can benefit from it? Keep reading to find out...
Originating from Moscow, Russia, this grooming treatment can be performed in just 30 minutes.
It uses the hair clients already have, rather than adding extra brow strokes via make-up or semi-permanent techniques, giving incredible results that last between six-to-eight weeks.
Influencers and celebrities alike, such as singer Dua Lipa, actress Zendaya and model Gigi Hadid, have all been spotted sporting the look, which has only helped to elevate its popularity further. That’s why you need to train in brow lamination.
Brow lamination creates a natural, low maintenance result, which is why clients enjoy the treatment – they can wake up without having to touch them, saving them time in their make-up routine.
How does a brow lamination treatment work?
Working in a similar way to a hair perm, or a lash lift, lamination is being described like a keratin treatment for your brows – hairs are straightened using a chemical solution and then set in place facing an upwards direction to give clients that “just combed” look.
Plus, it has no downtime and minimal aftercare – it’s a win-win.
“It’s the trick to get thick brows with that brushed-up effect without the need for semi-permanent make-up. It’s also less expensive than microblading, which is a big deal,” says Yana Gushchina, founder of Browfique London in London, which was one of the first salons in the UK to offer the treatment.
The treatment begins with a consultation to find the client’s perfect brow shape before a thin coat of glue is applied and hairs are combed into place. A brow perming solution is then applied, followed by a setting lotion then, usually, a hydrating product to prevent dryness.
In most cases the treatment is also combined with a brow tint to give extra definition.
Who would benefit from a brow lamination treatment?
Brow lamination is ideal for clients who spend hours grooming unruly brows, as well as those who have minimal hair (damn over-plucking!) because it creates the illusion of thicker, feathery arches.
It gives clients that definition without the need to fill in their brows with make-up – it’s an everyday timesaver.
However, managing client expectations is important when carrying out this treatment, as results can vary and it doesn't always work for everyone.
An experienced therapist should be able to identify who suits this treatment best, and what type of brows and brow hair this treatment will work best with
Charlotte O’Connor, educator and brow therapist, explains: “Client suitability is an area I really emphasise with students as brow lamination is not for everyone. Therefore, a thorough consultation is essential before carrying out the treatment and possibly achieving a disappointing result for your clients.
“The eyebrow lift and shape can only be created with existing eyebrow hairs, so clients who have sparse brow hair may wish to consider either a brow henna treatment – as this will stain the skin around the hairs and create a fuller shape – or even a semi-permanent make-up treatment in order to achieve a more permanent shape.”
What are the common troubleshooting issues with brow lamination?
Every client is different, so you really need to understand the lamination process to ensure you deliver a perfect service every time.
“When laminating brows, we have the luxury to see the structure change – you can feel the texture of the hairs change and become softer – so you know when they’re processed,” says Lisa Stone, an expert in brow treatments and a Salon System educator.
The key is to not overprocess and to avoid using tools that scratch and scrape against the skin when applying the product, as this can result in sensitive and sore skin. “Brow hairs respond fast to the chemical, and the structure of the hair can change very quickly, which is why timing is so important,” she adds.
“Don’t just apply and leave the product on; you need to be observant throughout the entire process. I always teach my students not to assume the hairs will need the full process time.”
If your clients have incredibly thick, layered brows, then make sure you’re only applying the product on top of the hair because then there is a risk of missing the lower layers.
“Only laminating the upper layer will result in a brow lamination that isn’t smooth or even. My best advice is to apply the product against the growth first and then with it, so the hairs are sandwiched in-between the product and sufficiently covered,” explains Stone.
“If the hairs are resilient, strong and tend to stand up straight, then place clear wrap over the brows once the product is applied, because this replaces the need to glue and keeps hairs flat and coated in product, ensuring a good process.”
If you’ve done your lamination but you still have a few troublesome hairs on the client that just won’t take then you could try ‘spot perming’, as Leigh Blackwell, founder of The London Brow Company explains.
“This is where you ensure all your perm is removed from the brow hair, then you use a small amount of perm on a microfibre applicator and just apply it to the hairs that are not perming well or are more stubborn,” she says.
“This will keep the remaining hairs safe from overprocessing while you work on the more stubborn ones.”
