Brow shaping to suit your client's face

Published 15th Sep 2023 by Kezia Parkins

Like fashion trends, brow trends are on an everchanging cycle… but some trends are not right for everyone. Brow shape is so important as they frame the face but also, done right, will enhance, define and lift the eyes and face explains Lisa Stone Salon System educator and brow expert.

“If the brow isn’t working with your face shape, it can easily make your face look older, longer, wider, or fuller or droopy," she says. No thanks!

Here are some top tips from Stone on creating a great brow for all your clients and some points to consider…

Have you read our feature on 2023 brow trends? 

Face shape of the client

Brows are not one size fits all. To achieve the perfect brow It’s important to learn and understand face shapes to decipher which shape brow works.

“The moment my client steps into my treatment room I am looking at their face, don’t be afraid to look, consider the jaw lines, the size of their forehead, where their eyes sit, the width and length of their face,” says Stone. “As a rule, a brow would be shaped opposite to the face shape…” 

A round face

“You should avoid a very rounded brow as it will make the face look round and fuller, create a brow with strong lines and angles with a good arch, this can help lift and lengthen the face.

A square face 

“Try and avoid strong lines and create a soft arch to soften a strong jaw line.”

Long/rectangle face 

“To shorten the length of the face keep the brows more horizontal or straight and reduce the height of the arch, this will draw eyes across the face and away from the length.”

Brow mapping is key

Stone says brow mapping is imperative to achieve the perfect brow on any client.

“You must be fully aware of the 3 key points for a basic brow map - your starting point, your end point, where the tail of the brow finishes and where the highest point of the brow arch needs to sit.”

Stone says next she turns her attention to her client’s eyes... 

“If the eyes are set close together and I want to create the illusion the eyes are wider, I will open the gap in-between the brows more… If the eyes are very wide set and I wish to make the eyes appear closer, I will reduce the gap in-between the brows,” she says.

“Then I look at the forehead. If its very high and I wish to create the illusion of less, then I will create a higher arch, but if the forehead is very small, I will create less of an arch.” 

Upright position

Another of Stone’s top tip for styling a brow is to always have your client in seated and not lying flat with relaxed muscles.

“You should work on your client in the same position as they see their brows and work from the front of your client, brows look very different when you’re styling from behind.”

Other things to consider

Stone says it's also smart to consider the age of your client while brow mapping, their personal style and preference and also how much hair they have.

"Also, manage expectations," says Stone. "What do you have to work with and is what the client asking for realistic?"

Check out our feature on thinning eyebrows...

Do you have any other tips for achieving the perfect brow for every client? Let us know in the comments...

Kezia Parkins

Kezia Parkins

Published 15th Sep 2023

Kezia Parkins is the deputy editor of Professional Beauty. She has a background in medical journalism and is also as trained nail tech. As such, she is particularly passionate about all thing nails, as well as the science behind beauty products and treatments. Contact her at [email protected]

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