How to avoid over-processing lashes during a lift

Q: How can I avoid over-processing lashes during a lifting treatment?

Lashes that have become over-processed will typically look dry, damaged, visibly unhealthy or even frazzled. Over-processing can also cause over-curling or lashes being fixed into an unruly direction. 

In recent years, we have seen an influx of products that claim faster processing, with shorter treatment timings and increased salon revenues being the focus, but this is to the detriment of natural lash health. 

The chemical process of lash lifting is to change the direction of the natural lash by breaking down the disulphide bonds within the hair and reforming it into a new position. If too high a percentage of the active ingredients employed in breaking down and reforming these bonds is used and left on too long, damage will be caused. 

Once the cuticle of a lash has been damaged, it will not return to a smooth, healthy finish. It will cause a porous surface, resulting in weakened hair that is open to any products that might meet the lashes over the coming weeks through hair washing, face washing and make-up removal. 

This will all make the damaged lashes worse. If over-processing occurs, it can’t be repaired. Conditioning elixirs and serums will improve the appearance slightly, and help encourage new growth, but you will need to wait out the lash cycle. 

Julia MoranJulia Moran is director of the Creative Academy Manchester and the key driver behind the Lashus brand, manufactured by Sweet Squared. She has more than 10 years’ experience in beauty education. 

Watch our PBTV video to find out the differences in training, outlay and profit for lash lifts and extensions.