How to avoid over-processing lashes during a lift [Updated]

With treatments involving perming solutions, such as lash lifts, there is a risk of overprocessing, with little margin for error.

We asked the experts to explain the dangers of overprocessing, how to avoid it, and how to help fix the appearance of over processed lashes.

What is a lash lift?

Lash lifts allow your clients to have the appearance of long, full lashes without the need of extensions, false lashes, or make-up.

“It’s basically your own lashes…but better,” explains Salon System educator and lash expert Ruth Atkins.

The process uses a perming solution to essentially change the shape of your lashes and hold them in the desired placement.

“By manipulating the shape and angle of your own lashes they are lifted in such a way that they appear much longer and fuller,” continues Atkins, adding, “your client might have naturally long lashes but, because they might be lying straight, they may look invisible unless they are mechanically curled and dressed with mascara. A lash lift will give this dressed look and lasts the life of the lash (between six to eight weeks.)”

 How does over-processing occur?

Over-processing of lashes is a result of the chemical solutions being left on the lashes, causing damage to the lashes.

“The chemical process of lash lifting is to change the direction of the natural lash by breaking down the disulphide bonds within the hair and reforming it into a new position,” explains eyelash expert Julia Moran.

“If too high a percentage of the active ingredients employed in breaking down and reforming these bonds is used and left on too long, damage will be caused.”

Timing is everything when it comes to lash lifts, as Atkins explains “You will need between 10-15 minutes depending on the structure of the hair you are working on.

“After the allotted time remove any excess product carefully with a cotton bud.” Ensuring you clean the lashes thoroughly between steps is vital to avoid damage to the lashes.

As for Atkin’s top timing tip? “Make sure you use a stopwatch - don’t guess.”

What do over-processed lashes look like? 

“Lashes that have become over-processed will typically look dry, damaged, visibly unhealthy or even frazzled. Over-processing can also cause over-curling or lashes being fixed into an unruly direction,” explains lashe expert Julia Moran.

How to care for over-processed lashes

“Once the cuticle of a lash has been damaged, it will not return to a smooth, healthy finish,” shares Moran.

“It will cause a porous surface, resulting in weakened hair that is open to any products that might meet the lashes over the coming weeks through hair washing, face washing and make-up removal.” 

“Maintenance is key , therefore if damaged we may ask them to brush them if they are very unruly. We may also ask the client to give their lashes a little break before they have another treatment,” adds lash specialist Shimol Kanuga, who offers services within Bangs, based in Walthamstow concept store Pavement.

Over-processed lash lifts can, in some cases, be reversed using a protein treatment to help rebuild the lashes, but Kanuga stresses that, “this can only be redone on lashes in good condition.”

“Conditioning elixirs and serums will improve the appearance slightly, and help encourage new growth, but you will need to wait out the lash cycle to get back to full lash health,” adds Moran. 

Atkins recommends avoiding too much aftercare to protect your lashes from product overload, sharing that, “A lash boost or collagen oil can be used as a lash treatment at home but the Lash Lift treatment aftercare is minimal.”