Semi-permanent makeup (SPMU) has evolved to cater to a more diverse range of skin tones, dispelling myths that previously discouraged performing treatments on melanin-rich skin.
According to Dior Davenport, a semi-permanent makeup artist, co-founder of the Black Micropigmentation Association and owner of Shador Studio in London, “For years, instructors told artists that they couldn’t perform semi-permanent cosmetic services on skin of colour because they believed it healed poorly.
“Fortunately, this myth has been debunked, and artists around the world are now showcasing beautifully healed results on darker skin tones.”
However, achieving these results requires a refined approach. Nez Hasan, a global SPMU specialist and educator, explains, “Understanding factors like melanin density, skin elasticity and undertones is essential to delivering natural-looking, long-lasting brows on deeper skin tones.”
Key differences when working on melanin-rich skin
Melanated skin has characteristics that affect the application of SPMU. For example, darker skin often has higher melanin levels, which can influence pigment retention.
Hasan highlights, “The more melanin in the skin, the darker the pigment may appear, sometimes healing to ashy or overly warm tones if the wrong pigments are used.”
Fitzpatrick skin types IV–VI tend to have more elasticity, which can impact how pigment settles. Artists must adapt their needle depth and pressure to ensure even pigment distribution while avoiding trauma.
“Using the correct needle depth is crucial,” Hasan explains. “Too shallow, and the pigment fades quickly; too deep, and it can migrate or blur.”
Melanated skin also tends to produce more sebum and oil, which can lead to pigment migration. Davenport explains, “To counteract this risk, artists should avoid oversaturating the skin with pigment.”
Additionally, the healing process may take longer, with melanated skin being prone to scabbing or swelling.
Understanding semi-permanent brow treatments for skin of colour
Both experts agree that some SPMU techniques are more effective on melanin-rich skin than others.
Davenport advises avoiding microblading due to its higher risk of scarring and discolouration. She explains, “Microblading is not recommended on darker skin tones as it can result in keloid scarring or ashy healed results. Machine stroke and powder brows are far more suitable as they cause less trauma and allow for better definition.”
Hasan echoes this sentiment, noting that ombré or powder brows often yield the best results. “These techniques provide a softer, more natural look and tend to last longer on darker skin.”
She also stresses the importance of spacing hair strokes during the initial session. “Once the skin heals, you can add more strokes during the follow-up appointment to perfect the design.”
Choosing the right pigments for clients with skin of colour
Selecting the right pigment is essential for successful SPMU on skin of colour. Both experts emphasise the importance of mastering colour theory to avoid undesired results.
“Warm, golden, or reddish tones are ideal for deeper skin tones,” explains Hasan. “Avoid pigments that are too ashy or light, as these can heal to greenish or blue tones on melanated skin.”
Davenport adds, “Black and orange modifiers aren’t your only options. Artists need to understand how different pigments interact with skin undertones for results that retain warmth even after healing.”
How to adjust techniques for semi-permanent makeup on darker skin tones
To ensure long-lasting and natural results, artists need to adapt their techniques for darker skin tones.
Hasan advises slowing down and paying attention to visual cues. “You won’t see redness or bruising as you would with lighter skin. Instead, look for swelling, blood or lymph, and give the skin breaks when needed.”
Davenport adds, “Applying gentle pressure and working slowly not only prevents trauma but also allows the pigment to oxidise, making it easier to gauge saturation.”
Avoiding common mistakes when performing brow treatments on skin of colour
Inexperience can lead to issues such as unnatural-looking brows, poor pigment retention or even scarring.
Hasan warns, “The most common errors are choosing the wrong pigment shade, applying too much pressure and using unsuitable techniques.”
Davenport adds, “Artists must understand the unique needs of melanated skin to avoid poor outcomes like hypopigmentation or scarring.”
Aftercare tips for clients with skin of colour
Post-treatment care is critical for clients with deeper skin tones, as they are more prone to post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH).
Hasan advises, “Avoid sun exposure, which can lead to hyperpigmentation or uneven fading.”
Both experts recommend keeping the skin hydrated with gentle moisturisers and avoiding harsh chemicals or exfoliants.
Clients should also resist the temptation to pick at scabs. Hasan warns, “Thicker scabs are common during the healing process, but picking at them can cause scarring or pigmentation issues.”
How to achieve great results for clients with skin of colour
Both Davenport and Hasan emphasise that knowledge and technique are the keys to delivering exceptional results for clients with skin of colour.
By understanding melanin-rich skin’s unique characteristics, mastering pigment selection and adopting appropriate techniques, SPMU artists can create brows that heal well and enhance their clients’ natural beauty.
As Davenport puts it, “When you respect the nuances of melanated skin, you open the door to artistry that is both inclusive and transformative.”
