As winter approaches, it’s crucial for beauty therapists to help clients adjust their skincare routines to prepare for the harsh conditions of cold weather, dry air and indoor heating.
These elements can strip the skin of moisture, leading to dryness, irritation, and sensitivity.
According to Marianne Longchambon, a beauty and spa expert, assistant training manager and international trainer for spa brand Swissline, "Prepping the skin helps maintain hydration, restore the skin barrier, and protect it from environmental stressors," ensuring skin is more resilient throughout the season.
How winter weather affects the skin
The colder months bring challenges for the skin. Dry, cold air and exposure to artificial heat indoors can weaken the skin's natural barrier, leading to moisture loss and making the skin more prone to issues like irritation, redness and premature aging.
"Dry and sensitive skin types are most affected by cold weather because they have weaker skin barriers," says Longchambon. However, she points out that even oily and combination skin types can experience dryness and dehydration due to reduced humidity.
Conditions such as eczema or rosacea are also more likely to worsen in winter. Identifying these issues early can help therapists provide tailored advice and treatments that protect the skin from these harsh environmental conditions.
Skincare adjustments for winter
To help clients combat the winter elements, a few key adjustments to their skincare routine can go a long way. These tips from Longchambon and Gina Baker, a skincare expert and trainer at spa brand Germaine de Capuccini, can guide you in advising clients on winter skincare.
1. Hydrate and repair the skin barrier
Start with treatments that focus on deep hydration and barrier repair. "Using products rich in ceramides, oils and antioxidants strengthens the skin barrier," says Longchambon.
Adding nourishing masks with ingredients like hyaluronic acid (HA) can help replenish moisture and strengthen the skin's defences against winter's harsh conditions.
Baker emphasises the importance of hyaluronic acid as a winter skincare hero. She explains, "HA holds 1,000 times its weight in moisture and works well in both serums and creams.
“A serum with a low molecular weight of HA will work more in the dermis, preventing long-term damage, while a high-molecular-weight HA in a moisturiser will give more surface protection from the cold.”
2. Boost the skin barrier and protect
For effective protection, recommend products that offer rich, nourishing creams to lock in moisture. Longchambon suggests "gentle but effective protection" from the elements, and products containing oils and butters like shea butter or squalane can help seal in hydration.
3. Personalised treatments
Winter skincare should be personalised based on each client's unique skin type and needs.
Baker recommends considering how a client's activities shift from summer to winter and adjusting their routine accordingly. "This is a great time of year to encourage clients to start using a chemical exfoliator with glycolic acid and AHAs," she notes, which can treat chronic dryness, pigmentation, wrinkles and dehydration.
4. Encourage gentle exfoliation
While exfoliation is still important, it's essential to advise clients to exfoliate less frequently in winter to avoid over-stripping the skin.
"Less-frequent exfoliation, opting for gentler chemical exfoliants, will ensure the skin’s barrier remains intact," Longchambon advises.
Winter professional treatments
In addition to at-home skincare advice, beauty therapists should offer specialised professional treatments to help clients prepare for the season. Baker and Longchambon recommend:
1. Hydrating and recovery facials
Facials focused on hydration and recovery can replenish moisture and strengthen the skin's barrier. Masks containing hyaluronic acid or oils are particularly beneficial.
2. Oxygen and LED facials
Oxygen facials can help boost circulation and rehydrate the skin, while LED light therapy, particularly red light, can reduce inflammation and stimulate collagen production to combat the effects of winter damage.
3. Gentle peels
Offer gentle chemical peels to encourage cell turnover without compromising the skin barrier, allowing clients to achieve a natural glow despite the colder months.
4. Nourishing body treatments
Dry skin isn’t limited to the face. Longchambon suggests nourishing body treatments like hydrating oil massages to counteract flakiness and dryness on the body.
At-home skincare adjustments for winter
Advising clients on what to do at home is just as important. Encourage them to make the following adjustments to their skincare routines:
1. Switch to richer moisturisers
Clients should consider switching to thicker, richer moisturisers to provide more occlusion and trap moisture during the colder months.
2. Gentle cleansers
“Advise clients to switch to nonfoaming, hydrating and antioxidant cleansers to prevent stripping the skin of its natural oils,” suggests Longchambon.
3. Increase hydration
Introduce clients to hydrating serums or boosters with ingredients like hyaluronic acid or niacinamide. "Niacinamide boosts hydration and helps reduce inflammation and redness," says Longchambon.
4. Sun protection remains essential
Although UV rays might feel less intense in winter, it's essential to remind clients that sunscreen is still a must. “UV rays can still cause skin damage, even in colder months,” Longchambon explains.
Key ingredients for winter skincare
Longchambon and Baker highlight several key ingredients that can be incorporated into both professional treatments and at-home routines to boost hydration and protect the skin from winter stress:
- Hyaluronic acid: For boosting hydration and keeping skin plump.
- Antioxidants: Such as vitamins C and E, ferulic acid and spilanthol, which help combat oxidative stress.
- Oils and butters: Like shea butter and squalane, which provide deep nourishment and lock in moisture.
- Niacinamide: To reduce inflammation and enhance hydration, as well as to protect against oxidative stress.
- Ectoin: An anti-stress molecule that protects skin from oxidative stress.
Helping your clients adjust their skincare routines for winter involves hydration, barrier protection, and personalised treatments to combat the environmental challenges of the season. By following these expert-backed recommendations, you’ll ensure your clients’ skin stays healthy, resilient and glowing all winter long.
