As the demand for non-invasive treatments continues to rise, spilanthol is quickly becoming a key ingredient in anti-ageing skincare.
Often called a “natural Botox” or “biobotox” in marketing, spilanthol has been clinically proven to reduce wrinkles on the face, neck and décolleté.
"It is a natural and fast-acting muscle-relaxant due to its ability to relax subcutaneous muscles when applied topically," explains Cigdem Kemal Yilmaz, chemical engineer and founder of Skin Masterclass.
What is spilanthol?
Spilanthol (C14H23NO), or spilanthes acmella flower/stem extract as it appears on INCI lists, is a naturally occurring bioactive compound found in the asteraceae family of plants.
This plant has been used in traditional medicine for centuries thanks to its analgesic properties, often being called the “toothache plant” due to its ability to reduce pain.
Also known as electric daisy or paracress, this ingredient can be found in skincare creams, gels and serums.
How does spilanthol work?
Spilanthol works through its muscle-relaxing properties, which help smooth the skin and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
"Renowned for its high alkylamides content (proven to be excellent markers of anti-ageing efficacy), spilanthol works primarily through its muscle-relaxing properties," says Yilmaz.
This muscle relaxation occurs as spilanthol interacts with ion channels in the neuromuscular junction, inhibiting the transmission of nerve impulses to muscles.
This reduces involuntary muscle contractions, particularly in areas where dynamic wrinkles form, like crow's feet and frown lines.
Emily Philen, senior manager of scientific affairs at Murad, explains, “One in-vitro test was completed on an artificial dermis model, which showed contraction of fibroblasts and interlinking collagen fibres; this action could be attributed to a firming or tightening mechanism of action.”
In addition to its muscle-relaxing effects, spilanthol is also recognised for its antioxidant, moisturising and soothing properties, with mild local anesthetic effects that can help protect the skin and maintain its youthful appearance.
Who is spilanthol suitable for?
Spilanthol’s benefits extend to a wide range of individuals. "Wrinkles and laxity are extremely common symptoms of ageing skin and stressed skin, so the smoothing of texture and firming from the spilanthes acmella flower extract are beneficial to anyone experiencing visible signs of ageing or stress – in other words, everyone," says Philen.
Yilmaz also notes that spilanthol can help reduce inflammation and redness in skin conditions like rosacea and acne vulgaris. “It is also beneficial for dry skin concerns thanks to its hydrating properties, and can help calm sensitive skin, reducing the likelihood of adverse reactions,” she adds.
However, there is limited data on the safety of spilanthol use during pregnancy and breastfeeding. Since it is a bioactive compound, it is advisable for clients to consult a medical professional before using products which contain spilanthol if they are pregnant or breastfeeding.
What can spilanthol be used with?
Spilanthol is highly versatile and can be combined with a variety of other skincare ingredients to enhance its effects.
Yilmaz explains, “Due to its versatility and tolerability, it works well with many well-known ingredients such as hyaluronic acid (which complements the muscle-relaxing action of spilanthol by plumping the skin), peptides (to boost collagen production), vitamin C (to brighten and boost spilanthol’s antioxidant properties), niacinamide (to boost its soothing and anti-inflammatory properties), and ceramides (to maintain the skin hydration and barrier function), as well as soothing agents such as aloe vera.”
Spilanthol has also shown effective skin penetration properties that improve the absorption of other active ingredients of a cosmetic product, which contributes to its increased efficiency, making it an attractive option for product formulators.
However, if clients are using active ingredients in separate formulations, such as an AHA toner or retinoid serum, it’s advisable to avoid combining these with spilanthol to avoid skin irritation.
The future of spilanthol in skincare
As the skincare industry increasingly moves toward natural, non-invasive solutions, spilanthol is expected to gain even more traction – so it might be something you want to think about adding to your products or treatments.
“It's natural, gentle, effective and has fast and long-lasting benefits; a list that checks many of the boxes of what people are looking for,” explains Philen.
Furthermore, non-invasive professional treatments and products that contain botanical-based ingredients are becoming increasingly popular, adding to the allure of spilanthol.
“Given spilanthol’s ‘natural Botox’ effects, it’s highly possible that a shift towards using it as a replacement or precursor to injectable treatments will gain popularity, especially as more research about its efficacy comes to light,” says Yilmaz.
With the demand for botanical-based, non-invasive treatments continuing to grow, spilanthol could become a staple in both professional treatments and at-home skincare routines.
