Pairing medical-grade ingredients with encapsulated delivery systems can significantly enhance their efficacy, stability, and tolerability, making treatments more effective with fewer side effects.
What is an encapsulated delivery system?
An encapsulated delivery system is a technology used to enclose active ingredients within tiny carriers or "capsules" before applying them to the skin.
“This approach helps protect, stabilise, and control the release of the active ingredients, enhancing their effectiveness and reducing potential irritation,” says Ashley Wady, cosmetic formulator and brand director at Bossface and SQT UK. “Encapsulation is widely used in skincare and pharmaceutical products to deliver ingredients like retinoids, vitamin C, and peptides more effectively and precisely.”
How encapsulated delivery systems work
Encapsulation involves enclosing the active ingredient in microscopic carriers (e.g., liposomes, nanospheres, or polymeric micelles). “These carriers can then release the ingredient in a controlled way or help it penetrate deeper into the skin, depending on their size and type,” adds Wady. “This method improves ingredient stability, extends its effectiveness, and minimises unwanted side effects like irritation on the skin.”
Here are 3 key ingredients Wady says to look out for when choosing encapsulated products:
1. Retinoids (retinol, retinaldehyde, tretinoin)
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Benefit of encapsulation: “Retinoids are notoriously unstable and can cause irritation. Encapsulation stabilizes these ingredients, protects them from oxidation, and allows for controlled release, reducing irritation and enhancing penetration for consistent results, she says.
2. Vitamin C (ascorbic acid)
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Benefit of encapsulation: “Ascorbic acid is highly effective for brightening, anti-aging, and antioxidant protection but is also very prone to oxidation and instability,” adds Wady. “Encapsulation preserves its potency and allows for deeper penetration, enabling a gradual release that extends its action.”
3. Hyaluronic acid (low and high molecular weight)
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Benefit of Encapsulation: “Although hydrating, hyaluronic acid is sometimes too large to penetrate deeply. Encapsulation allows better skin penetration and longer hydration, helping to plump and hydrate the skin from within,” she says.
Combining encapsulation with synergistic formulations
Wady explains that pairing encapsulated medi-grade ingredients with each other in formulations can optimize skincare results, e.g., encapsulated retinoids with peptides for anti-aging, or encapsulated vitamin C with niacinamide for brightening and skin tone evenness. “Together, these advanced delivery systems can maximize the benefits of potent actives, making them more effective, longer-lasting, and gentler on the skin,” she concludes.
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