As clients increasingly seek results-driven but non-invasive treatments, biomicroneedling is gaining popularity as an alternative or adjunct to traditional microneedling
We speak to leading educators and skin experts about how spicules work, who they suit and why this needle-free technique is so popular with therapists and clients alike.
What is biomicroneedling and how does it work?
Biomicroneedling is often described as nature’s version of microneedling – a regenerative treatment that stimulates the skin’s repair process without breaking the barrier.
“Biomicroneedling is a non-invasive skin rejuvenation treatment that uses natural needle-like structures called spicules, instead of the traditional metal microneedles,” explains Corinne Morley, lead trainer at Anesi Lab. “These microscopic spicules are derived from freshwater sponges called Spongilla.”
Gemma Halil, lead educator for pHformula UK and skin specialist at The Lodsworth Clinic, adds, “Spicules are microscopic structures that create controlled microchannels in the skin, mimicking the effects of microneedling but without the need for devices or actual needles. They enhance absorption of active ingredients and initiate a natural wound-healing cascade that leads to smoother, healthier-looking skin.”
Skin specialist Ashley Wady, director of SQT UK & Ireland, describes it as “a natural skin rejuvenation treatment that uses spicules from freshwater or marine sponges to gently stimulate the skin’s renewal process. The spicules act as nature’s micro-needles, encouraging the skin to renew itself from within while delivering ingredients deeper into the basal layer.”
Jenna Unwin, skincare expert and founder of Million Dollar Facial System, explains that results and recovery will vary between clients.
“Clients typically experience temporary redness, warmth and a prickling sensation, followed by mild dryness or flaking as the skin renews,” she says. “Results develop gradually and vary depending on the individual's skin type, treatment protocol and healing response.”
Spicules: nature’s microscopic delivery system
The spicules used in biomicroneedling are made primarily of silica and calcium carbonate, with a unique crystalline structure that interacts biologically with the skin.
“When massaged in, spicules create millions of invisible microchannels that reach the basal layer,” says Morley. “This activates the skin’s natural wound-healing response, promoting cell renewal and collagen synthesis.
"The spicules remain in the skin for over 48 hours, continuously stimulating the dermis and enhancing transdermal delivery of active ingredients.”
Wady adds, “Their porous, crystalline structure allows them to act as biological delivery drivers, facilitating the deep diffusion of peptides, vitamins and botanical extracts directly into the lower layers of the epidermis. This dual action of stimulation and absorption optimises treatment outcomes.”
How biomicroneedling differs from traditional microneedling
All the experts we spoke to agree that while both treatments boost collagen production, the mechanisms and client experience are very different.
“Traditional microneedling uses fine, mechanical needles to create controlled micro-injuries on the skin’s surface, which can involve mild discomfort and downtime,” explains Wady.
“Biomicroneedling uses natural silica spicules massaged into the skin, creating millions of microchannels without puncturing the barrier. It’s more comfortable, natural and delivers faster visible results.”
Halil says, “Unlike traditional microneedling, there’s no bleeding, no anaesthetic and no recovery time. The skin responds in a gentler, more progressive way – cumulative and restorative rather than inflammatory.”
Morley highlights the longevity of stimulation: “While metal microneedles are immediately withdrawn, Spongilla spicules remain embedded in the skin, continuing to stimulate the dermis for hours post-application.”
The skin benefits of biomicroneedling
Biomicroneedling is known for improving texture, tone and clarity across multiple skin types.
“It visibly improves fine lines, uneven texture and hyperpigmentation, and offers an effective solution for acne-prone or congested skin,” says Morley.
According to Halil, “It’s particularly effective for clients seeking rejuvenation without the downtime of aggressive treatments, helping to refine texture, reduce pigmentation and restore radiance.”
Wady adds, “Because it works biologically, not mechanically, it’s suitable for most skin types, even sensitive skin. It helps with congestion, acne scarring, pigmentation and early signs of ageing, promoting smoother, clearer and more radiant skin naturally.”
When results appear, and how they build over time
Immediate glow aside, the regenerative process continues well after the treatment.
“Clients see visible improvements after just one treatment, with smoother, more even skin and a brighter complexion,” says Morley. “With a course of treatments, results continue to improve.”
Halil agrees: “Many clients notice plumper, more radiant skin after their first session. Over the following days, regeneration continues and firmness improves. With regular treatments, the results compound.”
Wady notes that “best results typically appear within seven days, with optimum collagen remodelling seen 8-12 weeks after the first session.”
Treatment experience: what clients can expect
The experts describe a biomicroneedling facial as a tingling, granular massage rather than a needling procedure.
“Clients can expect a gentle yet active experience,” says Morley. “The spicules are massaged into the skin, causing a mild prickling sensation that increases during application but remains comfortable.
“Post-treatment, the skin may appear pink or flushed and feel slightly warm. Downtime is minimal, with makeup typically allowed after 24 hours.”
Halil adds, “There’s no bleeding or pain, just a mild warmth and pinkness that subsides within hours. Most clients resume normal activities immediately.”
Wady describes it as “a fine exfoliating sensation that signals the spicules are activating beneath the surface. Some mild tightness or dryness can occur over the next 24-48 hours as the skin regenerates, but the overall glow develops within days.”
While temporary redness, warmth, sensitivity, dryness and light flaking may be expected, practitioners should make sure clients understand which reactions require further assessment.
“Clients should seek professional advice if they experience increasing pain, significant swelling, blistering, spreading redness, pus, fever or unexpected pigmentation changes, as these may require prompt assessment and appropriate management,” advises Unwin.
Who is (and isn’t) suitable for biomicroneedling?
Biomicroneedling is suitable for most skin tones and types, but consultation remains key.
“It’s best avoided on active acne, open lesions, or inflammatory conditions such as eczema or rosacea flare-ups,” says Halil. “A professional assessment ensures safe and tailored results.”
Morley adds, “It’s not suitable for clients with active skin infections, inflammatory disorders, or those undergoing medical treatments that impair healing.”
Wady notes, “It’s also not recommended during pregnancy or for clients using strong retinoids or exfoliants. Proper timing and professional guidance ensure comfort and effectiveness.”
Unwin says practitioners should also ask about recent sun exposure, medications and conditions that may affect healing.
“Biomicroneedling should generally be avoided on skin with active infections, open wounds, herpes simplex outbreaks, severe inflammatory acne, recent sunburn or active eczema or psoriasis flare-ups,” she explains.
“Extra caution is advised for clients using topical tretinoin, taking anticoagulants or immunosuppressants, or with conditions affecting wound healing. Many manufacturers also recommend avoiding treatment during pregnancy and breastfeeding unless their guidance states otherwise.”
Preparation, aftercare and supporting ingredients
Good preparation and post-care are essential for optimal results.
“Clients should discontinue exfoliants, retinoids and other actives prior to treatment, and avoid anything that compromises the barrier,” advises Morley. “Afterwards, use targeted products recommended by your therapist and avoid UV exposure completely.”
Halil agrees: “Hydration, SPF protection and barrier-supporting serums are vital after treatment to maintain results and enhance the skin’s healing response.”
According to Wady, “Post-treatment, focus on hydrating and barrier-restoring ingredients such as hyaluronic acid, ceramides, panthenol and peptides.
“Avoid strong actives like retinoids, AHAs or vitamin C for several days. Supporting the skin with gentle hydration ensures longer-lasting brightness and smoother texture.”
Unwin adds that preparation and aftercare should always reflect the specific protocol being followed.
“Following treatment, active skincare ingredients should be avoided until sensitivity settles, makeup is usually delayed for 24 hours, and strenuous exercise, saunas and swimming should be postponed,” she says.
“Daily broad-spectrum SPF 50 and barrier-supportive skincare are essential during recovery, with aftercare tailored to the practitioner's treatment protocol.”
Is biomicroneedling worth it?
Whether biomicroneedling is worth it depends on the client’s skin concerns, suitability, expectations and commitment to an appropriate treatment and homecare plan. Although some clients may see visible improvements, professionals should avoid promising identical results for everyone.
“Whether biomicroneedling is worthwhile depends on the individual's skin concerns, expectations and suitability for treatment,” says Unwin.
“In my clinical experience, carefully selected clients can see improvements in skin texture, radiance, enlarged pores, oily skin and the appearance of mild acne scarring when treatments are performed correctly and supported by appropriate homecare.
“As with any professional treatment, results vary. A thorough consultation, realistic expectations and an individualised treatment plan are essential to achieving safe and effective outcomes.”
Unwin also advises practitioners to be measured when discussing potential results.
“Practitioners should avoid making unsupported claims about dramatic collagen production, permanent pigmentation removal, deep wrinkle correction or treating medical skin conditions,” she says.
“Outcomes depend on individual skin characteristics, treatment consistency and homecare. Honest communication and evidence-based recommendations help build trust and ensure clients have realistic expectations.”
Training, pricing and positioning for professionals
For beauty therapists, biomicroneedling can be a lucrative and innovative treatment to introduce.
“Therapists should complete hands-on training with the spicule provider to ensure correct technique, safety and understanding of contraindications,” says Morley.
Halil agrees that “training is essential – professionals must understand spicule behaviour within the skin and how to integrate it safely into resurfacing programmes”.
Pricing tends to reflect its premium positioning. “Biomicroneedling can be priced slightly above traditional microneedling (around £150-£180 per session) reflecting its advanced technology and minimal downtime,” suggests Wady.
“It sits perfectly between classic facials and device-led procedures, appealing to clients seeking visible results without needles.”
Common misconceptions about biomicroneedling
One frequent myth is that biomicroneedling is less effective than traditional microneedling.
“In reality, it’s a completely different process,” says Wady. “Biomicroneedling works biologically, not mechanically. The spicules stimulate renewal through the skin’s own regenerative response, delivering advanced and targeted results without trauma.”
Halil adds, “Another misconception is that it replaces microneedling, but it actually complements it, offering a restorative option between needling cycles or for clients who can’t tolerate invasive methods.”
Morley cautions therapists against overtreating: “Treating too frequently or assuming a stronger sensation gives better results are common mistakes. With this treatment, less is more.”
Homecare spicules and maintenance
Spicule-infused homecare products are growing in popularity, offering clients a way to maintain results between professional sessions.
“Homecare spicule products offer a milder effect for daily use, helping to enhance absorption of actives and extend results,” says Morley.
Halil agrees, “Professional treatments deliver deeper penetration and stronger regeneration, while homecare supports longevity. The in-clinic experience remains the cornerstone of transformation.”
Wady summarises, “Professional treatments create transformation, while homecare ensures preservation and enhancement. Used together, they form a complete skin regeneration system.”
The future of skincare
Biomicroneedling reflects the beauty industry’s broader move toward bio-stimulation, or using the skin’s own biology to rejuvenate from within.
“It exemplifies the shift toward non-invasive, science-backed treatments that support skin longevity through natural regeneration rather than mechanical disruption,” says Morley.
Halil notes that “refinements in spicule purity and particle size are allowing for more precise, predictable results”.
And as Wady points out, “biomicroneedling fits perfectly into the UK’s evolving regulatory landscape. It’s safe, sustainable and aligns with the demand for low-downtime, scientifically backed treatments.”
Biomicroneedling FAQs
What is biomicroneedling?
Biomicroneedling, sometimes called bio-microneedling or liquid needling, is a professional skin treatment that uses naturally derived microscopic spicules rather than metal needles. The spicules create controlled mechanical stimulation within the epidermis, supporting skin renewal and temporarily increasing permeability.
What is the difference between microneedling and biomicroneedling?
Traditional microneedling uses sterile metal needles to create controlled micro-injuries at selected depths. Biomicroneedling uses microscopic spicules to produce more widespread, superficial stimulation. Neither treatment is inherently better; the right choice depends on the client’s skin, medical history, concerns and treatment goals.
Is biomicroneedling worth it?
Biomicroneedling may be worthwhile for suitable clients seeking improvements in texture, radiance, enlarged pores, oily skin, post-inflammatory pigmentation or mild acne scarring. Results vary, so clients need a professional consultation, realistic expectations and an individualised treatment plan.
What skin concerns can biomicroneedling help with?
Biomicroneedling may improve dullness, uneven texture, enlarged pores, oily or congested skin, post-inflammatory pigmentation and the appearance of mild acne scarring. Practitioners should not promise permanent pigmentation removal, deep wrinkle correction or treatment of medical skin conditions.
Does biomicroneedling hurt?
Clients commonly describe a prickling, tingling or granular sensation while the spicules are massaged into the skin. Temporary warmth, redness, sensitivity, dryness or light flaking may occur afterwards, although the experience and recovery vary between clients and treatment protocols.
How long is the downtime after biomicroneedling?
Downtime is generally limited, but the skin may remain red, warm, sensitive, dry or flaky for several days. Makeup is usually avoided for 24 hours, while active skincare, strenuous exercise, saunas and swimming should be postponed according to the practitioner’s aftercare protocol.
Who should avoid biomicroneedling?
Biomicroneedling should generally be avoided by clients with active infections, open wounds, herpes outbreaks, severe inflammatory acne, recent sunburn or active eczema or psoriasis flare-ups. Those taking tretinoin, anticoagulants or immunosuppressants, or who have impaired healing, should discuss suitability with an appropriately qualified professional. Manufacturer guidance may also advise against treatment during pregnancy and breastfeeding.
How many biomicroneedling treatments are needed?
There is no single treatment schedule suitable for everyone. The number and frequency of sessions should be based on the manufacturer’s protocol, the client’s skin concerns and how fully the skin recovers. Practitioners should not repeat treatment while irritation or barrier impairment remains.
What aftercare is required following biomicroneedling?
Clients should use gentle, barrier-supportive skincare and apply broad-spectrum SPF 50 daily. Retinoids, exfoliating acids and other active ingredients should be avoided until sensitivity has settled. Clients should follow the specific aftercare instructions provided by their practitioner.
Can spicule skincare products be used at home?
Spicule-infused homecare products are available, but they are generally designed to provide a milder effect than professional biomicroneedling. Clients should follow the product instructions carefully and seek professional advice if they experience persistent irritation or are already using potent active ingredients.
When should a client seek advice after biomicroneedling?
Clients should contact their practitioner if they develop increasing pain, significant swelling, blistering, spreading redness or unexpected pigmentation changes. Pus or fever may indicate a complication requiring prompt medical assessment.
