Korean skincare has been gaining popularity in the West, focusing on skin health and achieving a glow from within. Also known as K-beauty, it has created trends all over the world, including the ‘glass skin’ look that has been popular on social media over the past few years.
Skincare educator and founder of Skin Masterclass, Cigdem Kemal Yilmaz, shared her insights on the subject.
“The K-beauty market has experienced significant growth in recent years, and according to Future Market Insights is expected to have a compound annual growth rate of 5.90% over the next 10 years,” she explained.
Dermatologist Dr Jinah Yoo says, “Social media has most definitely played an intrinsic role in the popularity of Korean skincare as a trend.”
“The pursuit to achieving the highly acclaimed ‘glass skin’ sparked a phenomenon and has created increased demand and opportunity- with many Korean based brands now available to shop in the UK and US. Korean skincare/beauty is one of the country’s biggest businesses and exports so it’s fantastic to see it gaining traction and recognition worldwide.”
What is Korean skincare?
Korean skincare is considered a gentle approach to skincare, nourishing and hydrating with scientifically sound ingredients that create proven results.
“What differentiates Korean Skincare from its Western counterpart is the focus on maintaining skin health and promoting a healthy skin barrier with the use of gentler ingredients,” explained Dr Yoo.
“Korean skincare products are formulated to promote hydration via soothing ingredients that will help to reduce inflammation and in turn not dry out the skin.”
Yilmaz described the skincare routine: “The classic 10-step K-Beauty regime has been used for decades in South Korea.”
The steps include a three-step cleanse (oil-based, water-based and exfoliation) so the products applied after can penetrate the skin better with optimal results.
“It’s not necessarily about following all 10 steps every day. What is important is that professionals and consumers understand the purpose of each step, then select and choose depending on the individual skin goals of the client.”
When it comes to active ingredients, PHAs (polyhydroxy acids) are a lot more popular in Korean skincare as they exfoliate the skin at surface level without penetrating too deep and aggravating skin as other acids commonly used in Western Skincare would.
Rebecca Elsdon, cosmetic nurse, advanced skin specialist and owner of skin health clinic Re/Skin, explained, “Korean skincare focuses on gentle yet effective products to achieve healthy, glowing skin through protection, hydration and a gentle approach to exfoliation and actives rather than an aggressive treatment. The philosophy focusses on nourishing the skin, taking a holistic approach to address skin concerns, and promoting self-care.”
What kind of ingredients do you find in Korean skincare?
“Korean skincare is highly renowned for its fermented skincare products, CC creams and oil-based cleansers which are all very affordable and I would struggle to find Western equivalents to match up to their quality, and certainly their price,” says Dr Christine Hall, Korean beauty specialist, doctor and pharmacist.
“There are so many ingredients that are used in K-beauty that we just can’t get in the UK but houttuynia cordata (a.k.a heart leaf) is an ingredient that is gaining in popularity in Korea and is being hailed as the next big thing in skincare as the product that will fix inflamed skin. It is a soothing ingredient that also has antioxidant properties but is also being used by many Koreans to successfully help with congested skin and blackheads.”
Yilmaz offered a list of distinctive ingredients, saying, “Ingredients focus on supporting and healing the skin with a low risk of irritation and dryness, making them a popular choice with consumers. Although they are gentler on the skin, they still possess potent benefits that result in clear, radiant skin.”
Unique ingredients
- Bee Venom – bee venom acts as a bacteriostatic agent, preventing the growth of bacteria, further supported by its anti-inflammatory activity. It may also reduce the appearance of wrinkles.
- Centella – Also known as Gotu Kola, Centella offers multiple benefits for the skin. It promotes wound healing, soothes inflammation, provides antioxidant protection, and improves skin hydration and elasticity.
- Propolis – Propolis is a resinous substance collected by bees, that offers antibacterial, antifungal, anti-inflammatory, and antioxidant benefits for the skin. It helps to heal and protect the skin, fight acne, reduce redness and irritation, and promote wound healing and skin renewal. Patch testing is recommended for new skincare products.
- Mugwort – Mugwort, a herb used in skincare, offers antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, and antioxidant benefits for the skin. It soothes irritation and may aid in wound healing making it suitable for sensitive skin.
- Panax Ginseng Root Extract – this traditional Korean herb is known for its anti-ageing properties. Ginseng contains phytonutrients that help to brighten the skin, reduce wrinkles, and improve elasticity.
- Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate – this is a type of yeast extract obtained from the fermentation of galactomyces. It helps to brighten the skin, even out skin tone, and reduce the appearance of pores.
- Liquorice Root Extract – liquorice root extract contains compounds like glabridin that have anti-inflammatory and skin-brightening properties. It helps to even out skin tone, fade dark spots and hyperpigmentation, and soothe irritated skin. It is well paired with other ingredients such as alpha-arbutin and kojic acid.
- Beta-Glucan – derived from yeast or oats, beta-glucan is a humectant and antioxidant that helps to hydrate the skin, boost collagen production, and strengthen the skin barrier. It also has soothing properties, making it suitable for sensitive or irritated skin.
What treatments pair well with the Korean skincare ethos?
Dr Hall believes that advanced treatments pair very well with K-beauty, due to its calming and nourishing nature. She recommends treatments that prioritise hydration and skin health.
“Skin boosters aimed at hydration work synergistically with K-beauty, while controlled microtrauma treatments such as laser and microneedling will heal more quickly, and downtime is often reduced with the use of ingredients found in the skincare.”
