Centella asiatica – better known as cica or “tiger grass” – has quickly gone from being a traditional medicine staple to a skincare essential, used in both professional treatments and at-home products.
But what makes cica so special – and why has it cemented its status as a 'trending' ingredient? We asked skincare experts for the lowdown…
What is centella asiatica?
“Centella asiatica, often called cica or tiger grass, is a small leafy herb native to Asia,” explains Jolanta Rusakoviene, advanced aesthetic nurse and founder of SkinVital Clinic.
“In traditional medicine, it’s been used for centuries to help wounds heal more quickly – legend has it that tigers would roll in the plant to soothe their battle scars. In modern skincare, it’s celebrated for its calming, repairing and anti-inflammatory properties, making it especially popular for sensitive or stressed skin.”
What are the benefits of cica?
Approximately 124 chemical compounds have been isolated and identified from centella asiatica, however Cigdem Kemal Yilmaz, chemical engineer and founder of Skin Masterclass, highlights some of the key bioactive compounds when it comes to its effectiveness in skincare. These include asiaticoside, madecassoside, asiatic acid, and madecassic acid, which “work to calm inflammation, stimulate collagen production, and repair the skin barrier.”
In addition to calming irritation and redness, cica is also rich in antioxidants, which protect against environmental damage. “For people with rosacea, eczema, or skin that becomes reactive after overusing actives, cica is a gentle but effective way to bring skin back into balance,” says Rusakoviene.
Yilmaz also notes the ingredient’s clinical backing, adding: “Reviews confirm its value in wound healing and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation management, as it helps up-regulate collagen synthesis, promote fibroblast proliferation and calm pigment-triggering inflammation.”
How is cica used in professional treatments?
Cica is now a go-to ingredient for soothing post-procedure skin.
“It is often found in barrier-recovery products, which are particularly useful to complete highly active or advanced treatments, where restoring skin resilience is a priority,” explains Candice Gardner, education manager at Dermalogica.
“In clinical and aesthetic settings, cica is frequently included in post-treatment care, following microneedling, peels, and fractional laser,” expands Yilmaz.
“Its barrier-restorative and anti-inflammatory actions help shorten downtime by reducing erythema and discomfort. A controlled clinical study even showed faster healing and better skin quality when centella-based gels were applied post-laser.”
How is cica used in at-home skincare products?
Because of centella asiatica’s soothing properties, Dr Sina Ghadiri, consultant dermatologist and founder of Sinaesthetics, notes that the ingredient is commonly found in creams, serums and masks aimed at calming irritated skin and protecting sensitive skin.
Products such as these are particularly beneficial to clients using retinol or exfoliating acids, working to restore comfort to the skin.
Discussing what skin types cica-based ingredients would complement, Rusakoviene explains: “Because it’s lightweight and non-irritating, cica suits most skin types, including acne-prone and sensitive.”
What other skincare ingredients does cica work well with?
As there are no documented contraindications, cica is generally very compatible with most skincare actives.
However, Gardner notes that cica pairs particularly well with barrier-supporting lipids and soothing actives such as oats, and hydrating humectants like hyaluronic acid. “Together, they create a more holistic approach to reducing sensitivity and strengthening the skin barrier,” she explains.
“It can also help buffer irritation when layered from stronger actives like retinoids or AHAs/BHAs, though the strength of such products can also be adjusted separately to reduce irritation,” says Dr Ghadiri.
Why are cica-based products popular with consumers?
Skincare knowledge is becoming more accessible to consumers, largely due to social media and the rise of ‘skinfluencers’. However, cica in particular has seen increased interest in recent years.
“Consumers increasingly favour products which leverage botanical benefits, with many traditional ingredients having a resurgence in popularity,” says Gardner.
Meanwhile, the rise of cica can also be linked to the global popularity of Korean beauty, “where barrier repair and hydration are top priorities,” explains Rusakoviene.
“As consumers have become more aware of issues like skin sensitivity, inflammation, and barrier damage from overusing strong actives, cica has become a hero ingredient. Its natural, plant-based origins also appeal to the growing demand for gentle yet effective skincare solutions,” she adds.
