Tranexamic acid has gained increasing recognition in dermatology as an effective treatment for hyperpigmentation, and in recent years has become a popular inclusion on ingredient lists.
Skin expert Candice Gardner explains how it works and when to use it for treatments and homecare.
Don’t miss Candice Gardner at PB North, where she’ll be talking about targeting hyperpigmentation with a multifaceted approach, on the Skin and Advanced Treatments stage at 12pm on Sunday, September 29. Register here for free access to the show and the live stages.
Originally developed as an antifibrinolytic agent to reduce bleeding, tranexamic acid's skin-lightening properties have become a focal point in aesthetic medicine.
Several studies over the last decade have demonstrated the effectiveness of tranexamic acid in reducing hyperpigmentation and preventing rebound pigmentation after advanced aesthetic procedures.
Alongside this, more recent comparison studies with hydroquinone demonstrate positive results, high patient satisfaction and fewer side effects from tranexamic acid.
How does tranexamic acid work on the skin?
Tranexamic acid is well-known for its role in treating hyperpigmentation, but it also offers significant benefits for reducing pro-inflammatory cytokines and promoting skin barrier repair, making it particularly useful in the treatment of melanin-rich skins. It functions by inhibiting the plasminogen/plasmin pathway.
By blocking the conversion of plasminogen to plasmin, tranexamic acid reduces melanocyte activity and melanin synthesis, reduces pro-inflammatory mediators and facilitates barrier integrity.
This pathway modulation effectively diminishes the formation of hyperpigmented spots on the skin and regulates barrier and inflammatory processes that could contribute to further hyperpigmentation.
Is tranexamic acid good for hyperpigmentation?
There are a range of benefits for skincare formulations, and it is often included in chemical peel systems that provide extended resurfacing to target stubborn hyperpigmentation.
For example, studies have shown that tranexamic acid can significantly reduce melasma, making it an effective option for those struggling with this condition.
Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation occurs following skin injury or inflammation, such as acne or eczema. Tranexamic acid helps lighten these dark spots, promoting a more even skin tone.
Its anti-inflammatory properties also help soothe and regulate skin inflammation, reducing the likelihood of future pigmentation issues.
Tranexamic acid skincare
Tranexamic acid is safe and suitable for all skin types, including melanin-rich and sensitive skin. It is less irritating than some other skin-lightening agents like hydroquinone and retinoids, making it a preferable choice for a wide range of individuals who may have increased risk of irritation or post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.
Tranexamic acid is compatible with other treatments and can be used in conjunction with other skincare ingredients like azelaic acid, vitamin C, niacinamide, and acetyl hexapeptide-1 to enhance its efficacy.
This synergistic approach helps to tackle hyperpigmentation from multiple angles, leading to more significant and faster results. It is also an ideal active to include in chemical peels and resurfacing formulas and systems targeting hyperpigmentation challenges.
Candice Gardner is the education manager – learning and content at Dermalogica UK. She has over 30 years’ experience in professional skincare and education, including advisory and committee roles.