Trend alert: Lower lashes are making a comeback

Published 31st May 2024 by Kezia Parkins

Bottom lashes/lower lashes are back but when it comes to professional treatments,  how do we adapt our technique to achieve this trend... 

On one side of TikTok there is the debate whether mascara on the lower lashes should even be a thing. On the other side is the whole world of experimental lash looks seeing techniques old and new being demonstrated. We take a look at some of the best ways to achieve this trending look… 

“I feel enhancements on the lower lash has been massively influenced and originated from the look that came from the 60’s model Twiggy…” says Salon Systems educator Lisa Stone. The iconic baby doll eye look is very famous and since then the look swings around every so often and allows makeup artists to create some incredible looks on the eyes this then filters down to salon looks and treatments.”

The lower lash trend is also helping support and evolve the ‘manga’ and ‘anime’ lash trends… 

Lower lash extensions

If your client is after a long-lasting lower lash look - extensions may be where it’s at but the technique differs a bit from doing them on the upper lashes.  

“Always apply them after the top lash extensions, this way you’ve got more lash to help hold back the natural lashes. I prefer to hold the top lashes out of the way with a spoolie or my index finger (making sure hands are oil free),” says Lashbase artist Alicia Reynolds. 

“B Curl lashes are my go-to for lower lashes, or split tip classics as they tend to be more flexible making them comfier for your clients… My ultimate tip for lower lashes is choosing the correct lengths… Always stick to ½ lengths longer than your clients natural lashes, so they’re noticeable but not irritating.”

“It’s the way you have to do it - you are literally putting the hairs on in the opposite direction.”

“You also have to make sure that you are very careful to put the extension on the hair and not on or too close to the water line - its not safe… you have to attach it to the hair,” says Valencia Koger - viral US lash technician. 

The right products and tools will help you carry out the delicate work around the lower eye area.

“My preferred tweezers for lower lashes are boot tweezers as the bend helps you angle your wrists for better placement,” says Reynolds. 

“B Curl lashes are my go to for lower lashes, or split tip classics as they tend to be more flexible making them comfier for your clients….”

“Using very fine lashes in 0.07 or a 0.05 thickness on the individual lower lashes looks pretty and subtle and a great replacement for mascara,” adds Stone.

Lower lash lift

Lifting or sculpting the lower lashes is starting to become more popular too…

Lash lift on lower lashes is no different to lifting upper lashes in the respect that the chemical change in the hair structure is exactly the same,” says Stone.

“Timings may differ due to texture of lower lashes and the shields are shaped slightly differently to accommodate a lower lash lamination and the shields for lower lashes are shaped thinner and smaller.”

Rather than the product being applied to lengthen the lashes, a lower lash lift change structure of hair, lashes are fixed in a neat uniform position so natural lashes will look neat, and uniform once processed and give a pretty doll like look to compliment the lifted upper lashes.

“Obviously working on both upper and lower lashes can be a little fiddlier than just doing uppers,” concludes Stone. “Eyes still remain closed throughout the process and care needs to be taken when bonding lashes and applying the chemicals. I would avoid carrying this procedure out if the client has extremely flickering eyes or can’t lie still for the treatment time and apply products with a delicate applicator or brush.”

Lower lash with makeup

Bold, spikey lower lashes can be achieved by MUAs and clients at home with mascara and a pair of tweezers… Not a new technique but one that has been making the rounds on TikTok recently.


Kezia Parkins

Kezia Parkins

Published 31st May 2024

Kezia Parkins is the deputy editor of Professional Beauty. She has a background in medical journalism and is also as trained nail tech. As such, she is particularly passionate about all thing nails, as well as the science behind beauty products and treatments. Contact her at [email protected]

Have all the latest news delivered to your inbox

You must be a member to save and like images from the gallery.