Exosomes are hot in regenerative aesthetics right now. Here is everything you need to know about their uses in skincare and aesthetics.
Rarely a week goes by without a new hot and trendy ingredient in skincare, but some of the most talked-about recently are in regenerative medicine. At the top of that list are exosomes which surged in popularity in 2024 alongside other treatments like polynucleotides and bio-stimulators.
What are exosomes?
Exosomes are tiny vesicles secreted by cells that play a crucial role in intercellular communication. Not to be confused with polynucleotides, some exosomes like E-50 are also collected from the testes of salmon.
“They are nano-particles naturally released from cells, especially stem cells,” says Dr Sof Rimouche, who runs Dr. Sof Plastic Surgery in Cheshire. They carry proteins, lipids, and genetic material from one cell to another, influencing various cellular processes, including regeneration, inflammation, and immune responses. In skincare, exosomes are derived from stem cells of humans, animals or plants and are used to enhance skin rejuvenation. Human-derived exosomes are illegal in most parts of the world but synthetic formulations are becoming more readily available.
“People can be put off when they hear about synthetics but I always remind them of insulin, which has been synthesised for over 20 years and is something people cannot live without, and of course HRT,” says Andrew Hansford, aesthetics educator and KOL for Dermapenworld which now has a line of products with ethically produced Exosomes.
“Synthetically made exosomes can be created to be human-compatible, meaning they work with our body’s natural regenerative power without the danger of taking on genetic cargo. They are closer to our DNA than those from plants or animals and should, therefore, be more effective.”
How do exosomes work?
Exosomes penetrate the skin and deliver their cargo of growth factors, cytokines, and other bioactive molecules directly to skin cells. This process helps to stimulate collagen production, reduce inflammation, and promote skin repair.
Benefits of exosomes for the skin:
● Anti-ageing: They boost collagen production, visibly reducing fine lines and wrinkles and enhance skin elasticity and firmness
● Regeneration: By promoting the regeneration of skin cells, exosomes help to repair damaged skin and improve the appearance of scars, hyperpigmentation, and other skin imperfections.
● Inflammation reduction: Exosomes have anti-inflammatory properties, making them ideal for rosacea or acne.
Exosomes for hair growth
Exosomes are often applied topically to the skin in combination with light microneedling, which is also becoming popular in trichology.
“Exosomes promote hair growth by enhancing the activity of hair follicle cells, improving blood circulation in the scalp, enhancing the communication in between cells and reducing inflammation,” says Dr Rimouche. “The treatment involves applying the exosomes topically or post microneedling, where they can stimulate dormant hair follicles, increase hair density, and potentially reverse hair thinning.”
Who are exosomes best for?
“Anyone looking to improve their skin condition will benefit from Exosomes,” continues Rd Rimouche.
“It is also especially recommended for those with inflammation - such as acne, psoriasis, eczema or rosacea. Also, those who suffer from large pores, pigmentation and dark undereye circles will see superior results.”
“Exosomes can be transformative for really deep pigmentation and melasma,” adds Hansford, “especially for the deeper Fitzpatrick tones who may be more cautious of peels.”
How are exosomes different from polynucleotides and skin boosters?
While polynucleotides focus on DNA repair, exosomes are more about enhancing cellular communication. They don’t just repair; they instruct the cells to behave more youthfully, which can have a broader impact on overall skin health. Additionally, exosomes can address a wider range of skin concerns due to their multifaceted effects on the skin.
Who should perform exosome treatments?
As no exosomes have been approved by the likes of the Food & Drug Association (FDA) or the MHRA, they are not allowed to be injected. “Exosomes are not an injectable, they are implanted via microneedling, which opens up the regenerative power of exosomes to the beauty market,” says Hansford.