Beauty ABC of 2014
As the year draws to a close, Professional Beauty looks back at some of the most innovative products and treatments to hit the market in 2014.
A IS FOR ADVANCED DELIVERY
Using collagen as an ingredient in skincare has traditionally been difficult as it’s hard to get it down into the dermis, where it is needed. Murad’s Rapid Collagen Infusion, which launched in February, achieves this by breaking down the collagen molecule into its amino acids, making it small enough to properly penetrate the skin’s surface.
B IS FOR BRIGHT EYES
Taking the BB trend and giving it a targeted twist, Mii’s Eye Loving BB Cream hit the market in May. Designed for use around the delicate eye area, it’s packed with raspberry stem cells to restore, SPF to protect, hyaluronic acid to plump lines, peptides to help puffiness, and light-diffusing particles to disguise imperfections.
C IS FOR COSMECEUTICAL INNOVATIONS
Elizabeth Arden entered the professional market in October with the launch of Elizabeth Arden Pro, developed by cosmeceutical mastermind Joe Lewis, who says it’s the first range to combine SPF, antioxidants and DNA repair enyzmes in one. It includes two acid peel treatments, and homecare includes a serum to boost DNA repair to detoxify skin.
D IS FOR DEEP FREEZE
Cryotherapy treatments continue to grow in popularity, and Cryosthetics’ handheld device, the Cryo Pen, launched in September, allowing therapists and aestheticians to offer targeted freezing treatments for skin imperfections such as tags without damaging healthy tissue.
E IS FOR EASY REMOVAL
Nail techs are familiar with the stubborn staying power of glitter polish particles. So this summer, OPI launched its antidote to the problem, Glitter Off, a base coat for glitter polish that allows for peel-off removal after one night’s wear.
F IS FOR FACE GYM
The benefits of facial muscle stimulation to reduce the signs of ageing have been well documented, and Payot’s latest launch, the Perform Lift range, comes with a set of “home gymnastics” moves for the face. The six exercises echo the 42 lifting massage steps of the professional facial, creating a stronger link between treatment and homecare.
G IS FOR GROWTH FACTORS
The first major launch from Environ for four years hit the market in November. The Revival Masque uses Asiatic acid, proven to stimulate growth factors in the skin. It is only recently that good, reliable concentrations of this acid have become available, says Environ. The mask also uses lactic and mandelic acids to help create smoother and more radiant skin.
H IS FOR HYDRATION
Intravenous drip hydration treatments took Hollywood by storm in 2014 and machines brand 3D-Aesthetics brought the trend to UK shores with the launch of Reviv this autumn. Treatments include hydrating and detoxing solutions as well as vitamin boosts. Reviv also opened its first UK standalone clinic in Cheshire this year.
I IS FOR INSTANT NAIL ART
Odyssey’s VPP instant nail art gels flew off the Palms Extra stand at the autumn trade shows as techs craving new innovations snapped them up. There are two versions in the range. Hydro Gel creates soft wave and bubble effects when painted over the matching base gel, while Mosaic Gel gives a cool, speckled finish.
J IS JUST FOR YOU
A frontrunner in the bespoke blending revival, Decléor launched its Oressence treatment in April. Based on the client’s consultation answers, the therapist blends three oils in different concentrations for use in the 90-minute treatment. Other bespoke blending treatments have since been launched in spas such as the new Agua at Mondrian London and salon groups such as Scotland’s Sleeping Beauty.
K IS FOR KAJAL
HD Brows has developed a bit of a cult following in recent years, so owner Nilam Patel’s decision to branch out with the launch of cosmetics line Make-up by HD Brows was well received by its loyal fans. Products range from bases and blushers to eye shadows and the hero Kajal, a versatile stick for creating statement eyes.
L IS FOR LAYERED LASHES
Lash treatments have become a staple for salons and the latest techniques to hit the market this year saw lashes going 3D. The Russian layering technique invo lves gluing two or more hairs to a lash, while Lash Perfect developed Tahitian feathering, which uses different length extensions on each lash for a fuller, softer look.
M IS FOR MULTI TECH LASER
Back in January, Lynton introduced the Duetto MT, a laser that emits alexandrite and Nd:Yag wavelengths simultaneously when used for hair removal, this means better results on those hard-to-treat cases of darker skin types with fine or light hair.
N IS FOR NO MAKE UP NAILS
Alphabet creams have taken the beauty market by storm over recent years, but August 2014 saw the first BB cream for nails hit the market . Orly’s BB Crème perfects nail colour and uses ingredients such as hyaluronic acid and vitamin C to hydrate and protect the nail.
O IS FOR OXYGEN
Oxygen - based therapies have been a hit this year. Crystal Clear’s Comit device took the trend a step further, combining it with cryotherapy and microchanneling. The result is a machine that helps to stimulate the skin’s own collagen production, but also to get active ingredients down into the deeper layers where they are most effective.
P IS FOR POWER PEELS
Not only is the Bio Surface Peel the first peel treatment for Dermalogica, but it also represents the brand’s commitment to its skilled therapists. It uses the Professional Expert Strength line, which launched this year, and combines enzymes and acid to rejuvenate the skin and treat fine lines, pigmentation, and acneic inflammation.
Q IS FOR QUICK GEL REMOVAL
As the popularity of gel polish goes from strength to strength, brands continue to innovate, whether it’s art effects, one-step systems, or colour-changing polish. SoPolish launched into the pro market in April, a peel-off, LED-curable polish system that is said to last as long as three weeks. The bonds adhering the base to the nail plate break down naturally over time, so clients can peel off their colour.
R IS FOR REGENERATION
This September marked 50 years in business for Thalgo, and the marine skincare brand launched a powerful, active-packed serum designed to regenerate cells to refine the complexion. Prodige des Oceans invited clients to “rediscover flawless skin in 28 days” with a formula packed with amino acids, intermediate molecular weight hyaluronic acid, and adenosine to reduce melanin synthesis.
S IS FOR SPA SPECIAL
Finding a way to turn manicures and pedicures into a luxury treatment that commands a higher price point has been a challenge for spas. This year, Essie tackled that problem with the launch of its EssieSpa mani and pedi, which include massage protocols developed by the New York Ballet’s head physio, Michelle Rodriguez.
T IS FOR TECHNOLOGY AND TOUCH
With client demand for powerful, machine-based facial treatments continuing apace, Elemis launched its hotly anticipated Biotec machine in February. The machine combines five technologies – LED, ultrasonic peeling, microcurrent, galvanic current, and oxygen – to offer seven treatment protocols, including a facial to treat blemishes, one to target radiance, and one for men.
U IS FOR UNIFORM NAILS
One of the most popular launches of the year, Famous Names’ IBX hit the market in February through distibutor Louella Belle. The two-step system is LED curable and treats damaged, flaky nails to make them stronger, smoother and more durable by binding together layers of the nail plate.
V IS FOR VITAMINS FOR SKIN
The trend for targeting skin from within continued to grow in 2014, and the iiaa’s Advanced Nutrition Programme added to its line in August with the launch of Skin Antioxidant supplements. The one-a-day supplements include skin-kind extracts known for antioxidant properties, including green tea, and extracts of grapeseed and bilberry.
W IS FOR WOW NAILS
Neon was the hot colour trend for nails this summer, and Sweet Squared’s Irresistible Neon Effect Nail Shadow pigments allowed techs the flexibility to incorporate vibrant shades into extension systems, create nail paint, or add effect to gel polish. Five shades hit the market in April – fluoro yellow, green, blue, orange and pink.
X IS FOR XMF
The hero product in Phytomer’s Pioneer XMF (extra marine filler) line hit spas at the start of the year. XMF Radiance Retexturising Serum was developed through biotechnology, with its marine ingredients modified in a lab. It uses exopolysaccharides that act on wrinkles, texture and radiance.
Y IS FOR YOUTH IN A JAR
Clarins hero launch for 2014 was from its Super Restorative range, designed women over 50. Super Restorative Day hit the market in April, with the night cream following in August, and both are designed to target the skin’s fibroblasts to reduce the more advanced signs of ageing in that mature market. The Day cream works on collagen production and the night cream aims to delay the formation of age spots.
Z IS FOR ZAPPING PRECISION
Radiofrequency (RF) has been a hit with salons in recent years as the gentle heating technology offers skin-tightening results. In 2014 Venus took RF nano-fractional with the launch of Viva, a high-impact device that delivers RF through 160 pins, creating micro wounds and pushing the RF to a much deeper level for facial skin resurfacing.