Make-up step-by-step: shading & highlighting

Laura Hannon, Head of make-up at the London School of Beauty & Make-up, shows how to shade and highlight your client’s face in 4 easy steps.

Mastering the art of shading and highlighting can dramatically redefine facial features, giving the illusion of sculpted cheekbones - a technique every woman should know about.

Step 1

Create a smooth base with your foundation or tinted moisturiser (applying your base with a foundation brush will help you to smooth the foundation with ease). Skin needs to be flawless and concealed in order to achieve the right finish. Apply a light dusting of powder to set the make up and take away any excess shine on the skin. Powder will stop the sculpting product going patchy on the skin.

Step 2

Take a moment to feel your bone structure, if it helps suck in your cheeks or use the flat of your hand to locate the natural hollows of the cheekbone. Using a small angled brush and sculpting powder such as MAC Sculpt (a matte bronzer or powder would also work) sweep the product from the highest point, usually the top of the ear or the hairline towards the mouth, stopping half way. This will create depth and the illusion of killer cheekbones.

Step 3

Darker tones will recede and lighter tones will bring forward! If you wish to soften a prominent jaw line or perhaps shorten a long nose, shade a small amount of product on the area to redefine.

Where there is shade there should always be light to counteract. Using a highlighter on the highest point of the cheekbone will make the area most outstanding. My favourite is Benefit HighBeem or MAC Strobe cream. Multi use your existing products by using an eye shadow as a powder highlighter, it will work just as well. Try using a light toned shimmer or matte eye shadow to reflect the natural light.

Step 4

Soften and blend the shade and highlight using a fibre brush to avoid any harsh edges, then using a blusher brush apply a small amount of blush to the apples of the cheeks. Bellapierre mineral blusher Desert Rose is the perfect mix of a cool rose and warm peach for a healthy summer glow!

Discover more about the London School of Beauty & Make-up by visiting them on stand F92 at Professional Beauty North, taking place at Manchester Central on 13-14 October 2013. 

Avoid the £20 entry fee on the day and register for your free ticket here.