#PBLive: bespoke brow tinting with Lisa Stone and Ruth Atkins
News just in – personalisation in brow tinting is set to be a big beauty trend for 2020.
With the brow market booming, the next step to making brow treatments more of an experience will be to customise tints so they harmonise with clients’ hair colour.
One brand ahead of the game is Salon System with its Refectocil Browista Creative Colour Workshop, which teaches beauty therapists how to intensify and lighten clients’ brows as well as develop more vivid colours like red, silver and blue.
Salon System educators and brow experts Lisa Stone and Ruth Atkins spoke to PB’s deputy editor Amanda Pauley about the trend and what to expect from the workshop.
What can therapists expect to learn on the Refectocil Browista Creative Custom Colour Workshop?
Ruth Atkins: “It’s really about giving beauty therapists the confidence to use all the colours in the range. We’re so used to using the standard black and brow tints on our clients brows but Refectocil has a real variety of colours where you can add different tones and shades, and lighten and lift out colour.”
What brow looks can you create with the tints?
Lisa Stone: “You can create vibrant reds and warm chestnuts, or you can cool a colour down as well as harmonise a client’s brow and hair colour together. In the past, we’ve just used one shade of brown but if you’ve got 15 customers in a day for brow tinting, why only use one shade of brown for them all when you’ve got lots of different tones you can work with.”
Atkins: “It’s about bringing therapists skills up to date with what is happening in the salon and on the catwalks. It’s about making the colour bespoke for your client. If you imagine all the colours you might have had on your hair throughout your life and then look at what colours you’ve had on your brows – it’s mad. In the past, there’s been no graphites, reds, pastels, violets or ombrés.
“The ombré brow is a look you can achieve with the tints by mixing different shades or using different processing times. I think the thing we need to impress upon is when you brow tint… you need to leave the tint on for a full process, which is 15–20 minutes, but don’t be scared of it. The light brown, for example, will go no darker than light brown, so make sure you’re using the full processing time to give the look longevity.”
There’s a bleach in the range which could be scary for some therapists to use. How does it work?
Atkins: “The bleach opens up all of the resistance in the hair. So, if your client was thinking of going really dark then most therapists wouldn’t think of taking the colour out of the brow first before adding in another shade but you can do all of that. It’s about stripping back the colour to a blank canvas so you can then add on whatever shade or tone that you want effectively.
“Plus, if you have an older client with wiry hair or a true red head, then their hair will be quite resistant to colour, so by pre-bleaching it is going to give the tone of the tint something to hang on to because it’s open and ready to be absorbed. You’ve got so much more scope with brow tints if you can take a little colour out.”
Stone: “It also helps the colour look more vibrant, so a red would standout a lot more if you had a blank canvas to start with. For example, if you want to be more of a natural blonde and your brows are naturally dark then the end result will look more realistic if you can take a little bit of colour out.”
Can this treatment be used on microbladed brows?
Stone: “The tint will enhance the microblading, as long as the client has left the appropriate amount of healing time after the treatment. The client’s microblading colour might be slightly darker than their natural hair colour so you can freshen that up a bit. The two treatments work really well together.”
What brow trends do you think will be big for 2020?
Stone: “I think the big, fluffy brow is still going to be quite prominent for next year. A maintained unruliness to the brows.”
Atkins: “Less geometric, less sharp, less neat. Organised chaos to the brows.”
The Refectocil Browista Creative Colour Workshop costs £25. Book it at Capital Hair & Beauty.
