Brow shading techniques using microblading

Q: How can I produce a shaded brow look on clients using microblading?

Therapists are reporting that shaded, textured brows are one of the most popular designs being requested by clients and it’s easy to see why. The look is perfect for those who prefer a shadowy eyebrow make-up effect that appears soft and powdery when healed.

Technically speaking, this type of look is the combination of gradient colour (a range of position-dependent colours), accomplished using different intensities of pigment, a variety of needle selections and specialised tattooing techniques. One of the techniques is microblading, where a qualified technician creates fine hair strokes to define the brows using a specialist hand tool with disposable microblades.

When sketching the client’s eyebrows using shadows and blenders, the design should be darker and more intense at the base line and tail, but seamlessly soften to a paler, more diffused effect in the bulb and upper sections.

To achieve this, several shader needle configurations are needed for area-specific density of colour. When microblading, technicians use a hand device and often make fewer passes in the area where a lighter density of pigment is appropriate.

So, a technique called “stippling” – which places dozens of individual dots of pigment into the skin to produce a graduated shaded effect – should be integrated into the design using the specialised shader needles for blending purposes. The result is a unique brow appearance with a variety of colour and texture.

This detail-dependent procedure requires advanced eyebrow techniques and permanent cosmetic colour theory training. Untrained technicians can misuse specialised needle configurations that are imperative for the intended soft and seamless transition of colour.

At K.B Pro, we offer these courses to make sure you become a qualified microblading artist able to meet clients’ expectations.

Karen Betts headshotKaren Betts is a permanent cosmetic and microblading artist. She is also director and owner of HD Brows and Nouveau Lashes, and founder of permanent make-up brand K.B Pro.