From softly diffused eyeshadow to deliberately undone under-eyes and dramatic kohl liner, beauty on the runway at A/W London Fashion Week embraced both polish and imperfection
This season’s looks moved away from ultra-precise techniques and heavy coverage, instead favouring texture, softness and expressive detail. Makeup artists experimented with smudged pigments, muted tones and lived-in finishes, creating beauty looks that felt modern, wearable and emotionally expressive.
Monochromatic lids
Eyeshadow made a strong statement on the runway this season, but instead of sharp cut creases or graphic liner, the focus was on soft, smoky, monochromatic lids. The look was diffused, wearable and modern, with colour washed gently across the eye rather than sharply defined.
At Tolu Coker, makeup artist Bea Sweet led the beauty team, creating the show’s signature look using what she described as “diffused neutral bone taupes and tailored grey makeup.” The result was understated yet polished – a muted palette that complemented the collection’s refined aesthetic.
Meanwhile at Connor Ives, the MAC Pro Team leaned into nostalgic glamour, working with dusky pinks and mauves that subtly referenced cinema’s classic femme fatales. The tones were softly blended across the lids to create a romantic, slightly smoky finish that felt both vintage-inspired and contemporary.
At Naomi Heart, a rising British womenswear designer known for her romantic yet modern aesthetic, the beauty look balanced softness with subtle rebellion, pairing glowing skin and delicate washes of blush with soft pops of pastel shadow diffused across the lids. Created by Mandy Gakhal for AOFMPro using Dermalogica UK, the finish felt effortlessly pretty with an undone, modern edge.
The beauty of imperfection
Full-coverage under-eye concealer may be a staple in everyday beauty routines, but if the runway at London Fashion Week is anything to go by, the trend is shifting in the opposite direction. Instead of masking dark circles, makeup artists embraced them – exaggerating and smoking out the under-eye area to create intentionally tired, lived-in looks.
Full-coverage under-eye concealer may be a staple in everyday beauty routines, but if the runway at London Fashion Week is anything to go by, the trend is shifting in the opposite direction. Instead of masking dark circles, makeup artists embraced them – exaggerating and smoking out the under-eye area to create intentionally tired, lived-in looks.
At Dreaming Eli, Carly Utting and the MAC Pro Team led the beauty direction, reflecting the collection’s exploration of “the intricate, sometimes messy and profoundly human bonds women share.” The makeup moved away from polished, traditionally feminine aesthetics and instead leaned into something more raw and expressive.
Smoked-out under-eyes replaced brightening concealer, giving models a slightly undone, late-night feel, while elements of grunge and Pierrot-style beauty added a theatrical edge. Pale, softly powdered skin contrasted with shadowy eyes and bold lips, creating a look that felt deliberately imperfect – embracing vulnerability, emotion and individuality rather than conventional ideas of perfection.
Defined eyes
Kohl-lined eyes made a striking return on the runway at London Fashion Week, bringing a sense of drama and intensity to A/W beauty looks. Thick, smudged liner framed the eyes, creating depth and definition while tapping into a mood that felt both timeless and modern.
At Paul Costelloe, the collection centred around a refined palette of grey, taupe, mocha and black, with silhouettes that carried a subtle sense of historical resonance. The beauty look provided a modern counterpoint: thick black liner was rimmed around the eyes to add depth and drama, while softly brushed, fluffy brows balanced the intensity with a lighter, more effortless finish.
Meanwhile at Julien Macdonald, inspiration came from London’s Shard skyscraper, reflected in a beauty look that channelled sleek evening glamour. Created by the Charlotte Tilbury team, the makeup paired luminous, glowing skin with enchanting smoky eyes, delivering a polished yet striking finish.
