For autumn and winter 2023, clients are bringing colour back into their lives through the medium of make-up. We explore the hottest trends for the colder season.
As the temperature drops and we step into winter, clients are wanting to infuse some colour into their beauty palettes. Payment service Clearpay has noted a 214% spike in purchases of neon eyeliner year-on-year.
Specifically, sales of green eyeliner are up 47% year-on-year as clients experiment with bolder looks. Perhaps more intriguing is the 345% jump in customers buying yellow eyeliner. If you haven't already, now is the time to get ahead of the trend and stock up on the whole colour spectrum.
This trend doesn't stop at eyeliner, however; Clearpay's data also shows a clear spike in sales of bright lipstick colours, noting a 75% spike in sales of blue lipstick each year, as well as a 54% increase in clients choosing a purple lipstick.
This affinity for colour can be seen across hit television series, such as Sex Education, which throws light on individuality and amplified hair and beauty choices.
Natalie Chapple, founder of Glisten Cosmetics, which was worn by the actors, said: "The influence of pop culture, including TV shows like Sex Education and Euphoria and artists like Doja Cat, play a significant role in shaping make-up trends and driving customer preferences."
Soft goth glam
The look that Irish MUA Evelyn Byrne is expecting to see everywhere is one she refers to as “soft goth”.
“This is a look that has been all over autumn/winter runway shows, and is now translating into people’s everyday routines,” she explains. “It can be worn quite minimalistic and pared back, or it can be a full-blown editorial look depending on your client’s aesthetic.” Soft goth has been spotted on several catwalks, including Dolce and Gabbana, Schiaparelli and Dior. But when it comes to creating the look on your clients, building up colour is the key to success.
“My top tip is to move from lightest to darkest with your shadows to ensure you have full control over how intense you would like your overall look to be,” says Byrne. “Start off the eye with a light brown shadow, then transition into a dark grey and then add your black shadow.”
To finish, Byrne likes to pair this look with a black liner in the waterline, and mascara.
To elevate the effect, a glossy, wet look adds texture and is great for catching the light, as Byrne explains: “If you’re feeling adventurous, you can add a clear gloss across the lid to give the perfect editorial runway look.”
Pastel power
Contrary to popular belief, soft-toned pastel shades work beautifully beyond the summer months, with Glow Up season five finalist Axel Brown looking forward to seeing the trends continue through the colder months with an icy winter twist, reminiscent of both Richard Quinn and Connor Ives’s catwalk creations.
“Soft pastel eyes are inspired by the delicate side of nature,” shares Brown.
For winter, rather than finding inspiration in flowers and soft brights, turn to cooler tones to reflect the change in weather. “Look for colours you find over winter within ice and frost,” adds Brown.
Struggling to get a good colour pay-off from your pastels? It all starts with a good primer. “The best way of creating a soft pastel eye is by taking time to prime the lid with a light concealer and setting it with a neutral powder,” explains Brown.
As with the soft goth trend, building your look in layers is important, and a light hand can be key. “Work in light application with the shadow. Start with a large brush and your lightest shade and blend it out,” advises Brown. “Repeat these stages while going deeper with the shades and smaller with the brushes, finishing the look off with a small amount of shimmer lightly applied over the lid.”
Candyland lashes
picture from @leyva.lashes on instagram
Take the power of a good pastel beyond just the lid and get some inspiration from Prada’s AW23 runways, where models were sporting long and luscious lashes in a range of peaches, soft pinks and baby blues.
Recreate this look for your clients with a coloured mascara to coat the lashes, or add in coloured accent lashes with a cut-up strip lash for a more subtle look.
Keep it clean
Although the AW23 fashion week season gave a range of inspiration when it comes to bold eye looks and daring lips, one trend that’s not going anywhere, and was a constant across the shows, is “clean girl” skin.
Prada worked with Pat McGrath to bring glowy and natural skin to balance its bold lashes, and Adeam’s soft-skinned and healthy look, reminiscent of that post-facial glow, allowed all the attention to be on its blurred-out burgundy lips.
Move to metallics
A trend that’s set to be huge this coming season is the addition of metallic accents. Get inspired by Chanel’s ultimate cool-girl silver and A.Roege Hove’s Copenhagen Fashion Week creation, and move your clients away from the traditional glitter embellishments in favour of a Christmas chrome, with sleek slivers, smooth coppers, and gunmetal and gold graphic liners.
Go bold with metallic graphic eyes or try layering a wash of a metallic paint pot over a smoky matte eye for a more subtle look.
If your clients are ready to commit to this trend, take inspiration from Di Petsa’s silver lip liner look, for those willing to take the runway directly into the real world.
