Brows can become thinner over time for a multitude of reasons – stress, lifestyle and diet can all effect brow thickness. Age can also be a factor because eyebrow hair can become coarse or thinner due to lack of elasticity as your clients get older.
Additionally, those who follow eyebrow trends may have overplucked eyebrows they are now keen to regrow.
However, there are several ways you can help clients achieve fuller brows, from offering advice on growth techniques to tinting and disguising thin brows by using brow powders.
You can also introduce the concept of semi-permanent solutions such as microblading.
We asked the brow experts for their top tips for treating clients with thinning brows, using a bespoke approach to brow shaping to suit your client.
Best eyebrow growth techniques
There are multiple products available to help encourage hair growth and thickening for skinny eyebrows.
Growth serums are recommended for strengthening and conditioning existing brow hairs. Ruth Atkins, Salon System educator, says, "Ingredients such as biotin, panthenol, keratin and hyaluronic acid are commonly found in these serums."
She adds, "Consistent use over a few months is necessary to see visible improvements in brow thickness and strength."
Emma Apps, senior international trainer for The Eyelash Design Company and HiBrow, adds “Using a growth serum will help nourish and care for the hair. Look for products that contain caffeine, which will help to encourage growth; keratin, which will help strengthen hair; and panthenol, which will help hydrate and nourish.”
Supplements are another great way to stimulate the hair follicles to encourage hair growth.
“Look for supplements with biotin, which is a superhero for hair growth, as well as diet with lots of oily fish, nuts and seeds,” suggests Tori Rosero, founder of Glowblade Academy.
Time to tint
Brow tinting involves colouring the eyebrows with a semi-permanent dye to enhance their appearance. Tint stains the hair and the skin to give definition and shape while filling in any gaps or sparse areas along the brow bone to make those 90s brows look denser.
“Tinting can help define the brow, and pick up and darken, soft, downy hairs in the brow,” shares Apps. “These are often fine, fair or blonde. Tinting them will give a subtle fullness to the brow.”
Atkins agrees, adding, "Tinting brows is an effective way to make them appear thicker. There are two types of tints available: oxidised and non-oxidised.
"Oxidised tints last longer (four to six weeks) but require patch testing due to potential allergens. Non-oxidised tints, while staining the skin for a shorter duration, can last longer on hair (up to four weeks). The choice between these tints depends on individual preferences and sensitivities."
The power of powder
When it comes to a quick fix, brow powder can become your best friend for achieving natural looking eyebrows.
"Brow powder is a versatile solution for filling in gaps, extending brows or enhancing the arch," says Atkins. "Mineral powders with quality pigments offer long-lasting results."
Apps adds, “Powder gives a soft but full effect that also looks very natural. For any areas that need a little extra colour, I suggest applying a specially designed wax pencil as this will help the brow colour adhere, boosting colour and longevity.”
Brow gel or even brow pencil can also be good options for clients seeking a quick way to fix sparse eyebrows at home.
Let it grow
It can be tempting for your client to touch up their own brows between treatments, but this can affect their growth when trying to achieve thicker brows and ruin the eyebrow shape.
“Clients should make sure they visit their brow expert every three to four weeks to keep their brows maintained, and they should avoid tweezing their brows at all and leave this to the experts!” shares Prital Mavadi, brow expert and Yumi Beauty ambassador.
“I have seen time and time again the journey of my clients who come in with over-tweezed brows and end up with the fluffiest, fullest and defined brows but this doesn’t happen overnight, it requires commitment and dedication.”
Look to laminate
Brow lamination is a great treatment to create fuller and fluffier looking eyebrows.
“It’s a great option if your brows have started to thin and you’d like a quick solution that’s affordable and not permanent,” says Rosero. “The natural, low maintenance aspect is another reason why clients enjoy having laminated brows, because they can wake up without having to touch their brows, so it saves time in their make-up routine.”
When it comes to which clients the treatment is suitable for, Rosero adds, “It also suits many different people with various brow styles – so you can go super dramatic or for a more natural look which makes it an appealing choice for many different people.”
Atkins reminds us that maintenance is vital, adding, "This treatment lasts up to four weeks and requires daily conditioning serum application to maintain optimal results."
Find out more about brow lamination here.
Semi-permanent solutions
Semi-permanent make-up provides a long-term alternative to filling in thin brows.
Microblading is a popular semi-permanent make-up technique that can enhance and reshape eyebrows, but it requires precision and skill to achieve realistic and long-lasting results.
“Microblading is the art of applying semi-permanent colour to the eyebrow with an incredibly fine sterile blade,” says Apps.
“Tiny precision hair strokes are drawn delicately onto the brow area to create a perfectly shaped eyebrow that can last up to 18 months.
“With care and the correct training, you can create fine curved hair strokes which give a more natural appearance than regular semi-permanent make-up.
“Every hair is drawn individually allowing you to build a completely unique look for your client.”
Personalising microblading to each individual client is key to a successful treatment.
“One of the worst scenarios that can happen is when the client is completely unhappy with the final result,” explains Monika Ludwiczak, co-founder and senior educator at Everlasting Brows.
“Eyebrow design issues can result in the need for additional touch-up appointments or even removal.
“To avoid this, it's crucial to have a thorough consultation with the client to understand their expectations and preferences, and to make a note of these for the record."
Atkins agrees, adding, "Discuss their preferences, medical history and suitability for the chosen technique. It’s advisable to schedule the consultation and treatment on separate days to allow time for thoughtful consideration before committing."
Rosero adds that it is vital to take into account your client's facial features, natural brow shape and hair flow in order to create a design that looks natural and suits their style and features.
When it comes to which clients this treatment is suitable for, she explains, “Microblading is ideal for those who have little to no brow hairs, and would like to create their desired shape, whilst still achieving natural results.
"It’s the most natural form of semi-permanent make-up, perfect for those who love a minimalistic look.”
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